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Day 9 Trsice

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Our day began with a short drive to Trsice. What a surprise greeted us as we walked to the Trsice City Hall from our bus when we saw a new historical marker for a five stop walking tour of the history here connected to the diary of Otto Wolf.  This trail takes people to the two memorials that we dedicated here in 2012 and 2013, as well as the Trsice history museum, the memorial at Zakrov to Otto and the 19 men killed here in April of 1945, and the cemetery where some of the rescuers are buried.



We were greeted in a traditional welcoming ceremony at the city hall which consisted of tearing off a piece of bread and dipping it into a bowl of salt before eating.  

We were ushered into the meeting room and introductions were made. The mayor of Trsice, Mrs. Leona Stejskalova, surprised us with her story of visiting Yad Vashem in Israel with 7 other mayors from the Olomouc area. Our friend, Dr. Karel Brezina told his memories as a child during the war, witnessing the Wolf family entering and exiting the hideouts along with the story of the Wolf family in Trsice.  Mrs. Zdenka Calabkova, the young daughter of Marie and Oldrich Ohera who helped hide the Wolf family in their home and who we call Mrs. Ohera, was not able to join us here because she is recovering from hip surgery.









We boarded the bus and walked through the forest to visit our memorial, dedicated in 2012 to Otto and his family, who hid here in the forest for three long years.  A local sponsor of the new Otto Wolf Trail, the Jezdecky Areal Trsice, a new horse stable with a bed and breakfast with a restaurant located in between Zakrov and Trsice, hosted a delicious lunch for our students, the mayor, her assistant and the local Boy Scouts and their leader.  After our tour of the lovely horse stables, we went to the memorial we dedicated last year to the rescuers who helped the Wolfs while in hiding.  

Our final stop in the area was at the memorial at Zakrov, where we were fortunate to find Mrs. Ohera, whose father and uncle were killed along with Otto Wolf.  To our surprise, Mrs. Ohera was out walking for physical therapy and gave us big hugs before posing for pictures.



After a two hour bus ride, we arrived in Oswiecim, at The International Youth Meeting Centre in Oswiecim/Auschwitz, where we ate dinner and learned more about this place.  Established in 1986 in a cooperative effort between Germany and Poland to use the history of the Holocaust, educators host seminars to increase understanding about issues of prejudice.  We are the only guests staying in a house with a living room, kitchen and multiple rooms.  As we type the blogs, they are in the loft outside their rooms upstairs laughing, talking and relaxing.  Soon we will sleep and prepare for our intense day tomorrow at Auschwitz and Birkenau.

Day 10: Auschwitz - Birkenau - Krakow

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Yesterday in Trsice, we visited the memorial in the forest where the Otto Wolf family hid for three long years with the help of Christian villagers.  The memorial was dedicated in 2012 and bears the names of three schools in the United States that worked to build this memorial.  One of the schools is St. Thomas Aquinas High School in Overland Park, Kansas, where Lisa Bauman teaches Holocaust Literature. 

This morning, we were awakened by the news of the tragic shooting at the Jewish Community Center and the Village Shalom in Overland Park, Kansas.  A known Ku Klux Klan leader, the alleged shooter reportedly yelled “Heil Hitler” from the backseat of the police car as he was arrested.  Many students from Overland Park, Kansas have participated in the Holocaust Study Tour over the years, and one of them even worked as a lifeguard at the Jewish Community Center. 


We have spent the day at Auschwitz and Birkenau, two of the most tragic sites in the world, where men and women made choices to act and not to act in the face of hatred.  Our students walked quietly and thoughtfully through the haunting exhibits of items taken from Jewish victims upon arrival: eye glasses, toothbrushes, hairbrushes, articles of baby clothing and children’s shoes.  











They stood aghast in front of the unfathomable piles of human hair and shoes, while holding on to each other for support.  However, the moment of most impact came in a section of a new exhibit in Block 27 curated, designed and built  by Yad Vashem. In a separate room is an enormous book as big as the room, the Book of Names,  filling two sides of many, many pages listing the names of more than four million documented Jewish victims of the Holocaust.  



























Beside the names are the dates of birth and the place of death. We slowly realized that our students were searching through the lists for their last names and names of their family members murdered during the Holocaust.  Many broke down in tears, realizing that if they were born in a different place and time, they, too, could have been listed in this book. Across from the Book of Names are photo frames with changing color photos of Holocaust survivors and their families, to celebrate the continuation of Jewish life.










On this day at Auschwitz, we realize once again the importance of our work.  The memorial in Trsice connects Overland Park, Kansas physically to this place through an engraving on a marble memorial.  However, all of the students who have been on the Holocaust Study Tour throughout the years also connect to Overland Park, Kansas, because they see the importance of studying this history.  They see what can happen when a person limited to a viewpoint of hatred and prejudice acts in violence, shooting innocent victims.  Our students are forever changed because of spending this Passover in Auschwitz and Birkenau, and will forever share the lessons learned here on this 14thday of April in 2014.









We ended our day walking to Cherubino restaurant off Market Square in Krakow where we celebrated the first night of Passover with an explanation of the Seder meal in both Judaism and Christianity and a joyful celebration of Nick's 18th birthday.




 



Student Photography Reflections

Dana's photo:
A picture that a child drew while in Auschwitz of what she/he saw. This is really important to me because it shows their innocence was taken before they got the chance to live. 



Kyle's photo:
The beginning of the end.  You go into the sauna, a human with an identity,  a name, and a personality.  You come out a number that has no name and no personality.

Tara's photo:
Two worlds, above and below,
The past and the present take flight to show.
We must keep moving forward and remember the past.
We cannot take it back, but we can make sure its history will last.




Gayle 's Photo: 
The gates state that "work will set you free" which instead of making them feel free, the prisoners were trapped and sent to their own death, a few being my relatives. 


Greg's Photo:  
The book of names where I found my relatives: names such as Kleinman, Moross, Bregman, Sidor, and Merer


Jane's Photo:
Hell is a place on earth.

Kiefer's Photo:

A rose can interpret life, death, and loss; in this case it can represent all three .

McKenzie's Photo:
"You are in control of your dreams. You are also imprisoned by them."-Mr. Barmore Walking through Birkenau makes you feel trapped just as the prisoners felt when they were kept there. 


Nick 's Photo: 
Photograph of a man named Wolf Flasker with obvious signs of abuse; I can only speculate that he, unlike many, in some way, tried to resist.


Nicole's Photo:
Flowers in the gas chamber-represents all the lives that have been taken and how we have to learn from it. 

Raquel's Photo:

" Walking in someone's else's shoes"
- the children who were gassed were forced to remove their shoes.
 
 Sarah's Photo: 
We are able to return home, an impossibility for the more than a million individuals who traveled these tracks. 



Shane's Photo: 
Terezin: The interpretations of a child.


Trevor's Photo: 
"More than just the end of a railroad line - this spot marked the end of the lives of millions of innocent people."

Matt's Photo: 
My relatives lost in the Holocaust at Auschwitz

Day 11: Krakow

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Our day began in the Jewish Quarter, Kazimierz, at the Galicia Museum.  Our guide showed us the history of this area through the photography exhibit, "Traces of Memory." The exhibit shows the Jewish history in this area that was, in Shalmi's words the "heart of Jewish life." The Nazis believed that by destroying the heart of Jewish life, they would cut out this vital organ of the collective body and therefore destroy all Jewish life.

Shalmi gave us the history of why large numbers of Jews came to Poland in the 16th century when they were invited by the aristocracy. Jews came here and formed communities called shtetls in the rural, mostly unpopulated areas. Jews provided capital for the seeds that needed to be planted, and also had a monopoly on the sale of vodka. According to Shalmi, Poles really like alcohol, so this became very lucrative. Jews became the tools of the nobility, who didn't like them, but needed them. However, this put the Jews in a precarious position with the local serfs, who were Catholic.

The Jews were central in the advancement of this area; they were necessary, not liked, but tolerated. As the middle ages progressed, Jews came to this area in huge numbers. For Jews, Poland was a land of opportunity.





Inside the Stara Synagogue in the Jewish Quarter, also known as the Old Synagogue because it was built in 1407, Shalmi taught us about the history of Hasidism, a part of Judaism that reflects emotional piety of the people who practice it. Jews here were visible, because of their Hasidism, and kept their religious practices, which also set them apart. They closed their businesses on Saturdays because of the Sabbath, and opened them on Sundays. They wore clothing and earlocks which set them apart in appearance. Their identity was very deeply connected to their religious practices and beliefs.  Hasidism relied upon an emotional relationship with God, and their love of God made their faith steadfast despite everything.  

From here we crossed the square to visit the Remu Synagogue, also known as the New Synagogue because it was built in 1650, which is currently under extensive renovation.Outside of this synagogue, we walked beside the Jewish cemetery, where Jews were given land to bury their dead.  Unfortunately both were closed today in observance of Passover, so we were unable to go inside.

We next visited the Temple Synagogue, a reform Jewish synagogue  which was built in the 1860’s when Krakow was part of the Austro-Hungarian empire.  The synagogue has Moorish designs on the ceiling and is quite ornate, reminiscent of the Spanish Synagogue in Prague.  It was dedicated to the Emperor Franz Joseph whom the Jews loved as he did them because in an empire with numerous ethnic conflicts, the Jews did not present any problems to his authority.  The Hasidic Jews said of the building, that it was not a synagogue but a temple.







After lunch at a nearby restaurant Kazimierz, our bus drove us across the Vistula river to the Jewish Ghetto of Krakow, where the Nazis forced the Jews to move. The Krakow Ghetto was a sleeping ghetto, where the Jews slept at night, and worked outside the ghetto walls during the day. The Jews ran this ghetto, and built the walls surrounding it in such a decorative way, showing their resilience and belief that this ghetto would be a new protected area, where they would be able to ride out the war. 
In front of the museum that once was the pharmacy of Tadeusz Pankiewicz, Apteka Pod Orlem (Pharmacy Under the Eagle), we looked out over the open memorial, with chairs, that represent the furniture that the Jews carried over the bridge into these cramped quarters, where 17,000 people crowded into 320 houses. Shalmi told us the inspirational story of Polish pharmacist Tadeusz Pankiewicz whose diary documents ghetto life.

Inside the museum, there is an exhibition about the Krakow ghetto and the role of Tadeusz Pankiewicz.  Visitors can open drawers, look into cabinets, browse through binders with quotes from his diary, smell substances in the numerous jars of chemicals, and search for information in a multimedia center.






Here Shalmi explains that Plaszow Camp, located only 5 miles from here, was built by the people from the Krakow Ghetto who believed they would survive the war because they are building a labor camp. They even built a barrack for children there, so they believed that their families would remain intact.






However, on March 13, 1943, all Jews from the ghetto were supposed to report to the square at 7:00 a.m. Once there, all children under age 14 were told to line up separately. Their parents were told that they would come to Plaszow the next day. Pankiewicz reports that some saw this as a bad sign and rushed to the pharmacy to purchase one of two drugs.  One of the drugs was Valerium--a drug that put their babies to sleep, so that parents could smuggle their babies into the Plaszow camp inside of suitcases.  Shalmi told us that 12 children are known to have been smuggled into Plaszow in this manner.  The second drug requested by many Jews was Cyanide, for suicide.



At 1:00 p.m., the Nazis ordered those not in the children's line to start marching from the ghetto to Plaszow. They left behind what they were unable to carry. The following day, their children were taken away and shot. Two days later, some parents found out when they were forced to sort the children's clothing, and found they were sorting the clothing of their own children.

After dinner we prepare for our day tomorrow, where will we explore other parts of Galicia, the region surrounding Krakow.  Tomorrow we will visit Wadowice and Tarnov, and the following day Zakopane and Rabka.










Day 12: Wadowice - Tarnow - Dabrowa Tarnowska

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Today we experienced three new cities in our quest to discover and learn more about the extensive history of Jewish life in Poland before World War II.  Our first stop was Wadowice, best known as the birthplace of Pope John Paul II, who will be canonized as a saint April 27, 2014.  Born in 1920 in a house owned by Jews where his parents rented three rooms, Karol Józef Wojtyła grew up in a thriving Jewish community where he went to school, acted in a drama company and even dated a Jewish girl. At the newly opened museum of his life here in Wadowice, we learned about Jewish history in the first room of the exhibition. Our guide Paulina told us that John Paul II used the phrase "older brothers" to describe the relationship between Jews and Catholics.While in Wadowice, we enjoyed a coffee break eating the Pope's favorite cream cake, similar to a Napoleon, but lighter and creamier.

 


Next we journeyed to the city of Tarnow, two hours east of Krakow, where we stood in the cold drizzle underneath the only remnants of the Skwer Starej Synagogue: the beautiful, tall bima.  The Nazis destroyed the synagogue in 1939, but many of the buildings that were part of the Tarnow Ghetto remain. The Nazis massacred massive numbers of Jews in 1942 and 1943, including 8,000 Jewish orphans buried in mass grave just outside the city. On our way out of the city, we drove by the expansive Jewish Cemetery, one of the oldest and largest remaining in Poland after World War II.

At the last stop of our day, Dabrowa Tarnowska, which means "the oak forests near Tarnow" in English, we met three amazing Polish high school teachers who have worked tirelessly to educate students here about the Holocaust and the history of Jews in the area. We met them at a beautifully restored synagogue in the center of the city that opened in June of 2012 as a center for the study of the culture of Jews and Poles in the area.




Shalmi told us that when he first started bringing groups to Poland for tours in 1986, this synagogue was in ruins and they had to literally crawl under fence openings to get inside.  Now the synagogue glows with ornate paintings, marble painted pillars and clear lead glass windows.







For these Polish teachers, who were brought up in communist Poland, the synagogue represents freedom and democracy.  For Shalmi, the synagogue represents hope and the fact that despite all of the ugly history of this place, change is possible. We said goodbye to the teachers, promising to return next year with a new group of students, and to communicate to plan a gathering of their Polish students and our American students here at the synagogue in 2015.














Day 13: Rabka Zdroj - Zakopane

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Today we continued our quest to find out more about Jewish life in the area, as well as learning about the culture of the Polish Highlanders, the mountain people of the Tatra Mountains in Zakopane.









Our first stop on our journey south of Krakow was the small town of Rabka Zdroj, a spa resort town that has been a source of fresh air for people suffering from lung ailments for more than a century.  Before the war, there was a Jewish community living here in part of the city; however, during the war the Gestapo took over part of a convent and used it as a school for interrogation training.  Their practice came from torturing Jews to death, then throwing the bodies out behind the convent building. Some of the nuns here, at great personal risk, drug the bodies uphill to a remote wooded area where they buried the bodies as best as possible given the circumstances.





We walked through the damp, cold grass beside the convent, uphill through the woods on a barely distinguishable path.  Now a memorial and fence surrounds the area of burial, and a memorial marker reads: "In honor of the martyrs who dies at the hand of Hitlerites 1941-1942."




Shalmi told us that this place represents both the depths to which society can sink, evidenced by the Gestapo using Jews for torturous interrogation practice; and the heights to which society can rise, evidenced by the nuns risking their lives to properly bury the Jewish bodies.
We continue by bus up into the Tatra mountains to Zakopane, where we enjoy a delicious Polish meal and buying souvenirs from the local vendors.

On our way back to Zakopane, Shalmi told us the story of his childhood in Poland, where his father served as the Israeli ambassador to Poland.  Born in Tel Aviv in 1945, Shalmi and his family moved to Warsaw in 1954, where he lived "a privileged life" compared to most Poles.  He attended a school for diplomats with American students and here learned the English language.  The Poles struggled to make a life in Warsaw a city in ruins hidden by elaborate facades depicting painted buildings, some even with window boxes of flowers painted on them. Here is where Shalmi learned about being Jewish, something he wasn't even cognizant of as a child in Israel.

When he was 13, he was the first person to have his Bar Mitzvah in the only remaining synagogue in Warsaw.  He assumed that no one would come because there were very few Jews here.  However, he and his family were surprised when they arrived to a synagogue packed with Jews from all over Poland who came to see the Israeli boy read from the Torah.  After reciting from the Torah, his father pushed him into the crowd, where Shalmi said people touched him and kissed their fingers, as if he were a holy object like the Torah carried throughout the synagogue for Simchat Torah. For these people who had survived the Holocaust, Shalmi represented hope and new life for the Jewish people of Poland.

Although he is not certain if this is why he became a Holocaust scholar, spending his formative years in Warsaw changed him.  We are thankful that he has been with us throughout our Holocaust Study Tour 2014.  We all hugged him when he left us this evening at our hotel, thanking him for teaching us so well.

Student Reflections

Nick says:
Today we learned of the story of bravery by the nuns of Rabjka Convent where they strived to give a proper burial to the Jewish people that were tortured ad used as guinea pigs by the Nazis.  We climbed the mountain to visit the cemetery and to see for ourselves the dangers the nuns went through to insure last rights to the murdered people.

Mackenzie says:
Today we visited a cemetery that had an incredible background.  At a monastery in Rabjka on our way to Zakopane we visited a burial site in which the nuns gave Jews killed by the Nazis in the town proper Jewish burial.  It was very moving to know that the nuns made the effort to give these people a burial.   This showed the true humanity and bravery of these nuns.

Trevor says:
Over the past two days I have learned a lot about people. From the reconstruction of the synagogue to Dabrowna Tarnoska,  to the bravery of the nuns in Rabjka, I saw the height of humanity as a response to humanity’s lowest point and that people are capable of doing what is right.

Kyle says:
The past few days have days have been unlike anything I could have expected. Mr. Barmore has taught us more than I can even process in such a short period of time. Today we visited a mass grave in Rabjka in which the nuns of the convent gave the Jews killed by the Nazis a proper burial.  This showed me a glimmer of hope during a very dark period in history and that it is possible that humanity can respond properly in such circumstances.

Jane says:
Today I found it compelling that a group of Catholic nuns gave the Jews killed in their convent in Rabjka a proper Jewish burial.  Visiting this cemetery and mass grave caused me to admire these nuns greatly because they defied evil with humanity.  I learned that even during such dark times, humanity is possible.

Gayle says:
Yesterday we travelled to Tarnow and we saw the ruins of the synagogue that had been burned by the Nazis in 1939.  This stood out to me because Mr. Barmore said how they would hold concerts and events now near the bima ruins. This showed me how Poland today is capable of acknowledging and preserving Jewish heritage. 


Matt says:
Seeing the cemetery today in Rabjka in which the nuns of the convent gave the murdered Jews a proper burial made me realize how much these nuns risked to honor these victims.  Their heroism was not lost on me and I will always remember this very powerful place. 

Dana says:
Visiting the hidden Jewish cemetery today, made me realize what true respect and humanity is.  Learning about how the nuns risked their lives to gather the bodies of the dead Jews and give them a proper burial was eye-opening.  It proved to me that no matter how awful or low people can fall, there will always be others to rise to the occasion and do what is right.

Greg says:
I found the Galicia museum in Krakow very intriguing.  I really liked how it showed pictures of past and present Jewish life in Galicia.   The picture of the missing mezuzah on a door post especially impacted me.  The museum displayed Jewish places of disrespect, murder, and dilapidation; however the museum did a really great job of showing monuments to perished Jews, renovated synagogues, and memorials.

Sarah says:
In the past couple days I have witnesses the preservation of Jewish heritage in small Polish towns, whose Jewish populations were decimated during the Holocaust.  In Tarnow, which used to be 45% Jewish, they have preserved the bima of the old synagogue that the Nazis had destroyed in 1939.  It now proudly stands as a testament to the once-thriving Jewish quarter there, a reminder that the Nazis ultimately failed in their attempt to erase the influential presence of Jewish life in Europe.

Nicole says:
I thought that the cemetery that we had visited today had a very powerful story. .  The nuns of the monastery nearby had preserved and buried the bodies of the murdered Jewish people who were killed by the Nazis.  It is a powerful story that they would be so respectful of these people’s lives to properly bury them out of respect. 

Raquel says:
Today walking through the woods to visit the “hidden” Jewish cemetery in Rabka, gave me some thought as to why it was hidden in the woods.  Just knowing that not many people know or even care about this cemetery is heartbreaking because it was part of a history and a big part of the survivors of the Holocaust.  People may not care but just before you know it history can repeat itself.

Kiefer says:
Today I witnessed the place where the Christian nuns left a nameless mass grave for the tortured Jews which left me awestruck for the compassion and caring for others that the nuns had shown.  The selfless acts were an amazing thing just for the pure fact that they had done it without anyone asking them to do so and without the proper knowledge of a Jewish funeral.  They gave a proper resting place to the murdered Jews just out of the goodness of their hearts. 


Tara says:
During yesterday’s visit to the museum about Pope John Paul II, I liked how he was in theater and the arts before switching majors to theology, which eventually led him to becoming the pope.  I, too, am interested in a lot of different things, particularly the arts, and the fact that he was so successful, despite completely changing his mind due to his liking of a myriad of activities and ideas was inspiring.

Shane says:

Yesterday we visited a restored synagogue in Dabrowa Tarnowska.  This synagogue stood out to me because it shows how the some members of the Polish community  are recognizing and honoring  the history of the Jewish people in Poland.  What that means to me is that people are remembering the past and learning from it rather than forgetting it.










Day 14: Krakow

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We spent our last day in Krakow touring Wawel Hill with our guide, Paulina, and learning about the history of this beautiful city. We saw the beautiful Wawel Cathedral, where John Paul II said his first mass as a newly ordained priest, and Wawel Castle, with a beautiful courtyard that depicts medieval architecture.

We walk through the beautiful park that surrounds the Old Town of Krakow, and stop at Jagiellonian University, one of the oldest and best universities in all of Europe.  Inside the courtyard where Copernicus studied and taught, we watched the astrological clock strike eleven and the wooden professors marched out and in to beautiful music.


Winding our way down the hill and into the bright, warm and sunny market square, we entered Krakow's Market Square Underground Museum.  Inside, we saw the archeological remnants of the medieval society of Krakow that operated small booths and traded in this bustling market on the trade routes going across Europe.

From here, we go back above ground to the square, and enjoy an afternoon that includes lunch and shopping for souvenirs from beautiful, hospitable Krakow, before heading back to the hotel to blog and to prepare for our final dinner this evening.

Final Reflections:

Nicole says:
Dana says:

Jane says:


Kiefer says:

Mackenzie says:

Sarah says:

Shane says:

Matt says:

Gayle says:

Nick says:

Greg says:

Tara says:


Kyle says:

Trevor says:

Raquel says:

Holocaust Study Tour 2015

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Welcome to our blog for HST 2015! We will be posting daily beginning on April 7th. Please join us as we embark on an educational journey and comment on our blog. We look forward to the insightful comments from our followers each year.

Day 1- Berlin

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DAY ONE – Berlin



Tuesday, April 7, 2015

Nineteen students from three high schools, New Milford and Midland Park [New Jersey] and Bishop O'Dowd [California] met together for the first time this morning at our hotel, the Moevenpick, in Berlin.  After introducing ourselves and meeting our Israeli historian and guide throughout our two weeks in Europe, Shalmi Barmore, we set off with our local guide, Olaf, to get a sense of the capital city of Germany.  Everywhere we went there were signs of construction as this city is an amazing study in old architecture and new buildings.  We learned that 60% of Berlin had been destroyed during World War II and then after the reunification in 1989 of East and West Berlin, there came a new spurt of building, particularly in formerly East Berlin. 




 

We visited the former Central Airport which had been built by the Nazis and which later served as the airport for West Berlin until the reunification of the city.  Next we spent some time at the famous Checkpoint Charlie, one of the security checkpoints through which people could legally pass between East and West Berlin after the Berlin Wall was built in 1961, at an aerial map of Berlin, we were able to see the scope of the Berlin Wall which stretched 96 miles and which had been built to keep Germans in East Berlin from escaping to the democratic West.  Standing before the map, Mr. Barmore asked us to consider some words, such as ‘occupy’ and ‘liberate’.  Did the Germans feel as though they were being liberated by the Allies?  Did they feel as if they were under an occupation?  Thus we were introduced to a theme which we will revisit many times during this trip, that of ‘perspectives’.  We will be challenged to consider the various perspectives of individuals living in Europe during World War II and to analyze their viewpoints. 


At Checkpoint Charlie, and later throughout the day, we saw several remnants of the Berlin Wall, whether they were five or six panels, carefully displayed before the Potsdamer Platz for tourists to visit, an untouched section of the wall left standing before the Topography of Terrors, a museum which we will visit tomorrow, or markers on the streets of Berlin which denote where the wall had stood.  Mr. Barmore told us that for him, Berlin was a haunted city; haunted by so many events that had taken place here. 



We visited Museum Island, home to many outstanding museums including the Pergamon Museum and the Egyptian Museum.  Olaf asked us to reflect upon why the Germans had spent so much time and money on building museums and bringing such important cultural and historical works to Berlin.  He spoke to us about how Germany felt she was making a statement that there had been Greece, then Rome, and now there would be another culture, Berlin.   Having made that statement, that Berlin was a city to rival these past cultures, it begged the question: If Germans were so appreciative of culture and learning, how could these people have followed Hitler?  How could the Holocaust have happened with such a cultured, educated people?



Mr. Barmore then spoke about why Berlin is building a new palace, which will house a museum which chronicles German history.   To Germany, it is important that she not be defined by the Holocaust.  It is a part of her past, which she has confronted, but she also wants to showcase the earlier periods of German history as well as what Germany has accomplished since the end of World War II. He asked us to personalize it and consider how people would deal with a certain chapter in their life that they were not particularly proud of. 
 
Our next stop was the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe which is a city block on which are placed 2711 grey blocks.  We talked about what the memorial represented to visitors as well as to the residents of Berlin.  We spoke of the difference between the classic memorials in so many cities which honor war heroes and which leave little room for discussion and the modern memorials which seem to challenge the visitors to enter into a discussion about what the memorial stands for.  What is the symbolism of the blocks?  What is appropriate behavior at the memorial? Why is it only for the murdered Jews?  Next we walked across the street to the memorial to the homosexuals who were victims of Nazi persecution and discussed its placement, content and symbolism.



 










      We stopped for lunch at Potsdamer Platz shopping center’s food court and then continued on to the Reichstag, Germany’s Parliament building.  After taking a group ‘selfie’, we walked to the top of the glass dome, which gave us stunning views of the city of Berlin.  Across the street from the Reichstag, we visited the memorial to the Sinti and Roma [more commonly known as Gypsies].  A pond with a stone center and ever changing flowers, surrounded by stones carved with the names of camps where Sinti and Roma were persecuted and executed, it, as with the two previous memorials was thought-provoking. 
 
 


We drove around the city of Berlin for a little while longer, taking in sights of various districts and seeing more portions of the Berlin Wall, and then headed back to our hotel where the exhausted students were given their Berlin roommates and time to relax and freshen up before dinner in the hotel.


Waiting for the teachers to decide their roommates!!!!!


Day 2 - Berlin

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DAY 2  BERLIN

Wednesday, April 8, 2015


This morning, after a good night’s sleep and a wonderful breakfast at the Moevenpick, we began our day with Mr. Barmore asking us to consider some questions before we headed out, such as:  “How did Hitler come to power?”, “Why do dictators like referendums?”, “Was the Nazi Party voted in to power or was it more that the previous regime was being voted out?” , and “Why was the East German dictatorship after the war called the ‘Democratic Republic of Germany’?” In essence we were being asked to consider the relationship between citizens and their government and the responsibility of individuals in a democracy.

We learned that Germany’s development in nationalism was different from most other nations.  Germany was more than 300 principalities which needed to be unified.  What makes people think they should unify?  Some suggestions were shared culture or history, common language, and in the case of Germany, a common enemy in the personage of Napoleon.  

Our first stop of the day was at the site of the 1933 book burnings in Berlin, in the plaza in front of Humboldt University.  The memorial to the book burnings is a glass plate on the plaza through which one can see rows of empty bookshelves.  We were asked to consider which books were burned and why?  Mr. Barmore told us that the Nazis wanted to destroy books by authors they felt were ‘contaminating’ the German culture.

We then walked to the German Historical Museum where Mr. Barmore told us he would be showing us some highlights of German history in an attempt to provide a framework that would contextualize the Holocaust.   That, in and of itself, he said, was difficult because if one accepts the assumption that German history defines the German people, how does a museum present that history as something which led up to what that society did?  He also spoke to us about nations having historical mythology and how nations often tried to recreate what was viewed as having been a perfect time.  And sometimes, we reshape our nation’s past in order to accommodate the future we desire.  Nazism, we were told, is the outcome of German nationalism, and their ideal to recreate the perfect Middle Ages.

At the German Historical Museum,  Mr. Barmore used the United States to explain some of the differences between the concept of nationalism as it developed in Europe and what we would call ‘American nationalism’.   America, he said, was a result of rationalism and the focus on democracy and the rights of the individual.  In the United States, the structure and role of the government was created in the name of the people.  The purpose of the state is to guard the civil rights of the citizens and the government officials in America are our civil servants.   In contrast, in the European historical evolution of the context of ‘nation’, it is something greater than its people, something vague and difficult to define.  The individual is only something because of the group; an individual cannot develop culture alone.   The nation will be personified by a symbol in order to simplify it.   France would be symbolized by the female statue, Marianne, Britain by Britannia, and Germany by the statue,  Germania.   And under fascism, the German state would become an absolute;  the role of the individual in that society was to serve the state.
As we continued through the museum we learned that during the Romantic Period,  many aspects that gave identity to a people, such as language, literature and music, would become specific to that nation.  In this way, Shakespeare’s plays became not just literature, but English literature, and Beethoven’s music would become German music.  While Germans were lacking in terms of geographic unification, they developed a sense of cultural unity which defined them.

 Later, when the Nazis came to power, a spiritualcomponent to nationalistic pride was added, so that Germans became superior not just physically but spiritually, which manifested itself in creativity.  For the Nazis this superior creativity would be attributed to race.  And when Jews became emancipated they entered the middle class, became economically successful and fell in love with German culture --- what Mr. Barmore called this the “one-sided love affair”.   While Jews felt assimilated, eventually German racism would hold that Jewish contributions to German culture were not creativity, but a vulgarization, cheapening or copy of that culture, and that would eventually destroy the culture.  To the Nazis, Germans created literature, Jews created journalism, a vulgarization of literature, and while Germans produced theatre, Jews created movies.  To protect the very existence of German culture, therefore, we were told, the Nazis believed that Jews needed to be expelled from German society. 

From the museum we went to the former Jewish neighborhood, Mitte.  Our first stop here was the Otto Weidt Workshop for the Blind. In this factory, students heard from Olaf about the blind and deaf employees who made brooms and brushes from horse hair and pig hair. Otto Weidt also employed Jews, and used the Berlin Work Act to legally keep employing his Jewish workers during the war. Because some of the brooms and brushes made were supplied to the German army, the workshop was deemed ‘important for the war effort' .  Otto protected his Jewish employees as well as a Jewish family of four which hid in a secret room built behind a secret wardrobe closet.  After eight months of hiding, the family was betrayed and deported to Auschwitz, where they were all murdered.  Olaf explained how Otto Weidt helped one employee, Inge Deutschkron, who is the survivor who returned to Berlin after the war and memorialized the rescue efforts of Otto Weidt by single-handedly creating this museum.


 

After lunch we walked to the Jewish cemetery where we visited the grave of Moses Mendelssohn and the memorial to the women who had been interned in the German concentration camp north of Berlin, Ravensbruck.  On our walk to the last stop  of the day, the Old Neue Synagogue, <olaf called our attention to several engraved brass plaques amidst the cobblestones of the sidewalks on which we were walking.  These, we were told, were part of the Stolpersteine (Stumbling Stones) project of a German artist and sculptor, Gunter Deming.  Since 1989 he has placed these stones, at the request of family or friends, to memorialize victims of National Socialism, primarily Jews.  Each stone bears the year of birth and the deportation and fate of the person.  The stones are then laid before the building where the individual or family lived. In light of our discussion yesterday of traditional versus modern memorials, Olaf asked us whether or not we thought these were an appropriate memorial and there were varying perspectives.  

We continued on to the Old Neue Synagogue which was built over a six year period and consecrated in 1866.  The beautiful Moorish building style and the large Schwedler Dome of gold, shaped the silhouette of Central Berlin,  and was a symbol visible to all of the self-confidence of the Jewish community.  During Kristallnacht, in November of 1938, most of Berlin’s 14 synagogues were burned, but Wilhelm Kratzfeld, the Berlin police officer responsible for the district, was able to preserve the synagogue from major damage by chasing away the arsonists and calling the fire department.  The synagogue was able to resume services in April of 1939 and the last services took place in March of 1940 at which time the synagogue became a storage place for documents and records.  Allied bombs severely damaged the synagogue in 1943 and in 1958 the main synagogue was blasted in what was then East Berlin.  In 1988 a seven year reconstruction project was undertaken and the synagogue opened as a museum in 1995.


Mr. Barmore talked to us about German Jews and their aspirations.  People, he said, when they entered into a different society or culture, might try to assimilate or integrate.  Many Jews wanted to truly assimilate into German society, even to the point of converting to Christianity.  Others wanted to integrate, which meant becoming a part of the society but still retaining certain elements of Judaism.  Mr. Barmore told us how German Jews, attempting to integrate into German society, would built such extravagant synagogues, to rival the most elegant Christian churches.   And Olaf showed us two Torah curtains which contained a Psalm.  While the writing was in Hebrew letters, the words created were Germans.

We headed back to the hotel where we would have time to freshen up before our dinner at a restaurant back in this Jewish neighborhood.  

Upon returning to the hotel, the students were asked to consider the various sites of today and to reflect upon some aspect of a memorial that had impacted them.  The goal of this trip is to complicate students' thinking and their observations reflected that goal.   Camille noted that she was impressed with the synagogue and the fact that instead of fully remodeling the synagogue, the community "took the damage with pride" leaving it unfinished.  Caitlin stated that the book burning memorial left the greatest impact on her because of the fact that the Nazis would choose to destroy knowledge, simply because of whom it came from.


YouTube video of Otto Weidt's Workshop - Student Reflections














Day 3 - Berlin

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After another sumptuous buffet breakfast, we boarded our bus for visits to three very different memorials:  the Bavarian Quarter memorial, the Grunewald train station memorial, and the Wannsee House.  As we drove to our first stop, Mr. Barmore had us revisit some information from yesterday:  the fact that modernization had come late to Germany, she had experienced an accelerated pace of development, she had had a fast and disastrous downfall with her loss in World War I, and was a society in crisis.  He told us that Nazism was an offshoot of World War I as the people were so disgusted with their fall from power.  And we learned that Communists had also tried to foment a revolution in Germany.  The crisis in Germany society lent itself to extremist ideologies as the people tried to cope with their situation.  Mr. Barmore said that in the American system, things were explained by ‘the American way’: using the Constitution and American values, if you do things the right way you will succeed.   The Nazis, he said, insisted that it was not a process, but the blood, that will provide success.  The difference between the American system and Nazism was the freedom to choose.  With the United States, one could choose how to act, but in Nazism, there was no choice as one could not change one’s blood.  Democracy depends on choice, he said, which is one of its strengths and one of its weaknesses. 

Mr. Barmore told us the Nazis were faced with a paradox:  they came to power in 1933 and wanted to solve the “Jewish Question”, but did not know how.  The Nazi ideology was racist and about the survival of the fittest [the Aryan race], but in the beginning they were more about expulsion of Jews from society rather than their annihilation.  On the one hand, they wanted to eliminate Jews from society, but on the other, they didn’t have a clue as to how they were going to accomplish their goal.  Yet in nine years, there would be 5 factories of death operating in Poland, with precisely that function.  So how did they arrive at 1941, doing exactly what they could not conceive of doing in 1933?

We learned that it was a process which consisted of three phases. Historians had long struggled to understand the process and they fell into two schools of thought. Intentionalists believed that there was a straight line between Nazi ideology and the killings.  The other school of thought, the functionalists reasoned that if it was a straight line, there should be references to the killings in early Nazi documents. Yet, historians could not discern anything about anniliation in reports of early years. Today, most historicans accept the functionalist view which holds that Nazi policy evolved "a twisted road to Auschwitz"due to changing circumstances in three phases. This means, said Mr. Barmore, that if the functionalist view is correct at each phase of the Holocaust things could have been done to avert it, making individual and national inactions more troubling.



At one sign which showed a loaf of bread, the ordinance read ‘Jews are only allowed to buy food between 4 and 5 in the afternoon’  and was dated April 1940.   Mr. Barmore spoke of milestones for Germany’s Jews in the Holocaust.  This rule, he noted, for Berlin’s Jewish community, was just such a milestone.  He told us of how Inge Deutchkron who had survived the Holocaust and created the Otto Weidt Museum of the Workshop of the Blind we had visited yesterday, would mention this law and say that when her neighbors saw them standing in line for bread, they would not acknowledge them but would cross to the other side of the street.  They were embarrassed,  and chose to not notice her so they would have to acknowledge the law; they preferred avoidance to having to deal with the injustice of the rule.  He noted that the people that really hurt you are closer people, friends who don’t notice you, more than the law itself.  And all this was occurring in a society in which Jews sought so much to assimilate.





We also stopped by a local elementary school which has been engaging in a special project.  The letter explaining the project states that “because of the relationship to the history of local Jewish life, this project is embedded in the teaching unit ‘National Socialism’ for our 6thgrade class.”  Students choose a name of a Jewish citizen from the community and do research on the individual, then memorializing that person by preparing a brick to add to their growing wall in the schoolyard during a ceremony each spring that now receives considerable attention from the Berlin community.  Since the project’s initiation in 1994, more than 1,000 students have participated in this activity.






Our next visit was to the train station of Grunewald, a wealthy residential area of Berlin.  From this train station, beginning on October 18, 1941, that most of Berlin’s Jewish residents were to be deported.  Olaf showed us three memorials to the deportation.  The first was some railroad ties in front of the entrance to the train station, established by a local group of Lutheran women in 1986, with a plaque commemorating the beginning of the deportations and a group of trees which had been brought from Auschwitz and planted there.  The second memorial was a wall which depicted figures as they walked up the hill to the train platform.  The third memorial, established by the German railroad, was two platforms lined by plaques which represented each deportation train listing the date, number of Jews and the destination. 


Mr. Barmore also spoke to our group about how the Holocaust represented modern murder.  First, because of the technology, and second, because of the bureaucracy.  The technology allowed the Nazis to bring people from as far away as Norway quickly and efficiently, and the vast system of bureaucrats, with their organization and exacting, meticulous methods, made it possible for the Holocaust to be so total.  This presented a problem after the war, he said, in that how do you answer an individual who says, “I didn’t do anything wrong, I just drove a train” or “I just typed a letter, I’m not responsible.”  How can you do the most terrible things, without really thinking you are taking part in it, we were asked.

   








After lunch at a nearby German restaurant we arrived at our final memorial destination for the day, the Wannsee House.  It was in this house, located on the beautiful waterfront lake, Wannsee, that representatives of the bureaucratic agencies would meet on January 20, 1942 for a luncheon over which they would discuss how to carry out the plan known as the Final Solution.   Olaf told us how after the war, though the city owned the Wannsee House, it was a property that was ignored until 1992 when they opened the exhibition about what had occurred here fifty years earlier.  “Initially they wanted to forget,” he said.  “Now they want to use it to educate.”

Inside the Wannsee House, which in 1942 was a house used by Nazi leaders for meetings and social gatherings, Mr. Barmore reiterated what he had told us about Nazi racial ideology; namely that the Nazis did not view their desire to eliminate the Jews from German society as emanating from any hatred of them, but from their ‘reasoned’ conclusion that Jews were essentially a destructive virus in the body of Germany and for its survival, they needed to be eliminated.  “The Jews are our misfortune” was a common phrase used by the Nazis.  To the Nazis, ‘misfortune’ represented ‘evil’ from a profound point of view.”



Phase I [1933-1939] focused on legislation and emigration of Jews.   Early in the Nazi years, April 1, 1933, a one day boycott of Jewish businesses occurred.  This was not orchestrated from above, by the government, but was an action of the S.A. and was unsuccessful and unsettling for the German people because it represented chaos at a time when they had elected a new government on the promise of law and order.  Nazis therefore decided they must not allow mob activity to take over and decided to go about the process differently.  They would have the legal state first define who was Jewish, then take away the rights of those individuals and proceed against them in a legal, orderly way to “squeeze them out of Germany”.   But when no nations were willing to accept  Germany’s 500,000 Jews [less than 1% of the population] and many Jews were unwilling to leave their home, the Nazis realized they would have to go about their goal a different way, and Reinhard Heydrich was placed in charge of a special office to find solutions for the Jewish quarter.

Phase II [1939-1941] focused on the period of concentration or ghettoization.  The Nazis had been unsuccessful in dealing with their own Jews, and now with the invasion of Poland, there were an additional 2.5 million Jews that Germany needed to deal with.  Possible solutions discussed were the concentration of the Jews near Lublin, or shipping them to Madagascar, neither of which was possible.  The Jews of Poland were concentrated in the larger cities into ghettos during this period.  Mr. Barmore noted that this was a phase of the process which is unfortunately often overlooked in a discussion of the Holocaust, while the death camps are the major focus.  He told us that the average length of time a Jew spent in a death camp was 2 hours.  This is where they were brought to die, while the ghettos were the place that they lived --- for one, two, maybe three years.  So a study of the ghettos, he reasoned, and their life in the ghettos, was a crucial part of Holocaust history.


Phase III began June 1941 with the German attack on the Soviet Union.  The Nazis understood that it would be a special war; one of competing ideologies and they prepared for that special war by establishing special units, called Einsatzgruppen [mobile killing units], prepared for a harsh war with Russian communists, partisans, and Jews who might be aiding the Soviet army.   These units from June through December would be responsible for killing more and more Jews outside big cities, often with the help of local citizens, especially in the Ukraine and Lithuania who viewed themselves not as being conquered by the Nazis but as being liberated from the Soviets.


After this happens in the Soviet Union, but only in the Soviet Union, the Nazis needed to decide what to do with the rest of the Jews and they started analyzing their options in October and November of 1941.   They reasoned that the mobile killing units were inefficient, and they were especially concerned that 20-30% of the members of the units doing the shootings had suffered mental breakdowns.  They needed to design an indirect, impersonal way of killing by industrializing it, so they developed the factories of death in Poland.   They had already experimented with carbon monoxide at Belzec and zyklon B gas at Auschwitz [then a concentration camp], and so they were ready to proceed, but they needed a process of how to proceed. Hitler’s deputy, Reinhard Heydrich was given that task.

 

Therefore three phases in the Twisted Road to Auschwitz, I-Emigration and Legislation, II-Ghettoization, and III-Annihilation were complete.   However the Nazis came to be what they could not conceive of when they initially came to power, Heydrich and representatives of the bureaucratic agencies which would be used in the  murder of  Europe’s Jewish population delineated the process for it here,  over lunch, in this house where we now stood.

Mr. Barmore's final comment to us, before we boarded the bus, was that for himself and many Holocaust educators, the study of this event remains so relevent because the Holocaust poses questions that no one is beyond.


 




























Day 4 - Berlin to Prague

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DAY 4 - BERLIN / PRAGUE


We began our last day in Berlin with a stop at a memorial to one of the lesser known events of the Holocaust. In February 1943 a group of German Aryan women stood in front of the building at Rosenstrasse 2-4 which was serving as a detention center for Jews who were scheduled to be deported east. These women were married to Jewish men who had been rounded up on orders of Joseph Goebbels who wanted to make Berlin “Judenrein” [Jew-free] as a birthday gift for Hitler. For one week the women stood in front of the building, chanting “We want our husbands back!” The Germans set up machine guns, threatening to fire on them, but the women would not back down. Finally it was the Nazis who relented, releasing all their husbands, even bringing back two who had earlier been sent to Auschwitz. The Rosenstrasse memorial was one built by the Soviets in response to pressure from citizens who felt the event should be marked and depicts the events of this week in February 1943 and the heroic efforts of these women to challenge the Nazi regime and secure their release. Mr. Barmore informed us that about 2,000 Jewish men would live out the remainder of the war in Berlin. This represented another contradiction, he said, as to Nazi policy. The Nazis were so fixated on the destruction of all European Jewry, to the point, he said, that when they found out that some Jewish babies had been left with rural Ukrainian families in an attempt to save their lives, a special SS squad was sent to the area to find the babies, kill them and their adoptive Ukrainian parents, and yet they were willing to allow 2,000 Jewish men to remain in the German capital because of the women’s protest. This demonstrated, Mr. Barmore said, how even dictatorships cannot totally disregard public opinion and needs to be mindful as to what actions might be negatively viewed by the population. It was also noted that there were many non-Jewish women across Europe, married to Jewish men, but this type of resistance only took place here, adding to the complexity of the study of the Holocaust and human behavior.





Earlier in the week we had visited the German Historical Museum which gave us an overview of German history. Today, our final stop would be the Jewish Museum of Berlin, designed by architect Daniel Libeskind, which opened in 2001 and focused on 2,000 years of German-Jewish history. Entering the Museum’s basement brought us to three axes. Two of them – the “Axis of Exile” and the “Axis of the Holocaust” focus on the Nazi era. The third axis, the “Axis of Continuity” leads up several flights of stairs to the exhibition which takes visitors through two floors of German-Jewish history, beginning with the first Jewish communities in the Middle Ages, through Moses Mendelssohn’s contributions to the Enlightenment, the process of assimilation of Jewish citizens, the Holocaust, and the rebuilding of the Jewish community in Germany post 1945.

Olaf began our tour with the Axis of the Holocaust where we entered through a door to find ourselves in a 24-meter high space, called the Holocaust Tower, rising from the basement to the roof inside the building. Empty, unheated, dark, lit only by natural light from a diagonal opening in the wall, one could hear sounds from outside the building yet felt so disconnected and separate. Mr. Libeskind called this room the “voided void”. 

 
In the Garden of Exile stand 49 titled columns on sloping ground. Olaf told us that exile meant rescue and safety but arrival in a foreign country also caused feelings of disorientation. Refugees often had difficulty gaining a solid foothold in their new home, hence the uncertain path visitors must walk as they wander through the columns. Mr. Barmore talked to us about how there was no stability in this exhibit, but rather the sense of uncertainty which reflected the difficulty in even trying to understand what, precisely, was the German Jewish identity.

Mr. Barmore also spoke to us about the absence of what used to be. He spoke to us about an area nearby which now nothing stood, but where once stood a synagogue. “When nothing stands for something, it’s a loaded nothing,” he said. “It’s nothing, but with memory, not a simple void, making this place not just a museum but also a memorial.”

In one space we came upon a robot which was writing a Torah, which we all found quite fascinating.

In another empty space in the building, there was an exhibit by the Israeli artist, Menashe Kadishman, who called his installation “Fallen Leaves”, dedicating the more than 10,000 metal faces covering the floor, to all innocent victims of war and violence. As the students walked through the void, stepping on the metal faces which created a cacophony of clanking, they reflected on the significance of this modern memorial as well as their level of comfort at walking through it.













As we continued through the history of Jews in Germany, we came to the 20thcentury – commerce, art and film. Jews because of their long history with commerce, had developed the department store, such as the large Berlin store, still in existence, Kadewe. Mr. Barmore told us that while Jews were less than 1% of the German population, they were 10% of the Berlin population, and on the main commercial street, Kurferstendam, they were even more prominent, visible, and economically successful, leading to jealousy. Jews were prevalent in film which was seen as a degenerate art form and prominent in journalism which Nazis claimed was the vulgarization of literature. These arguments played into the Nazi ideology that Jews were a destructive element in society, incapable of creativity, but who had a predilection for destroying that which was good in a nation, its culture.
The last stop we made in the museum was before a picture of Walter Rathenau, who, Mr. Barmore said, was the symbol of the one-sided love affair he had spoken to us about earlier. Walter Rathenau was the son of Emil Rathenau, a highly successful German Jewish businessman who had established AEG Incorporated. His son, Walter, was nominated, following the loss in World War I, as Foreign Minister for the Weimar Republic and would be sent to Paris to help negotiate what would become the Treaty of Versailles. Two men, Albert Einstein and Max Lieberman approached him and begged him to not accept the nomination, fearing that if anything went wrong, the Jews would be blamed, Rathenau’s response was that “I am first a German; and if my nomination helps Germany, I will accept.” Rathenau went to Paris and he signed the Treaty of Versailles which was rejected by consensus of German public opinion. A short while later, he would be shot and killed by a right wing radical. At the trial, Rathenau’s mother spoke to the mother of the son, and is reputed to have said, “If your son knew what a good German he killed, he would have turned his gun on himself.”

We left the museum and drove to the new train station where we said goodbye to our Berlin guide, Olaf, and boarded our train for Prague. The rest of the day was traveling on a five hour train ride through the beautiful countryside, arriving in Prague at 7:30 p.m. where we were met by our Prague guide, Kamila who took us to our hotel and then to dinner at the Municipal House.



To watch videos of our experiences today go to our YouTube Channel at 






















Day 5 - Prague

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Day 5 - Prague
 


Our day began with a bus ride up to the hills overlooking the beautiful city of Prague to Prague Castle, the largest castle complex in Europe. During the ride, our local guide Kamila, told us a little about the geographical layout of the city as well as some of the history. The capital city of the Czech Republic has a little more than one million residents, and is called Praha, which means ‘threshhold’ because as she told us, one never knows when they are crossing the threshold from history to mythology in this city. We were to learn that from several of the stories we would hear throughout the day.

We started at the Strahov Monastery manned by friars who came to Prague in the 12th century from France, selling their services as bibliophiles (librarians) and scribes (copies of books). A special tour had been arranged for us and we were able to physically enter the two beautiful halls of their library, one for theological works and one for philosophical works. The library contains over 45,000 volumes of works dating back to the








10th century, demonstrating how the church institutions were the depositories and guardians of much of the European culture. In the Hall of the Censors we learned how the friars would determine whether a book was acceptable to the church or needed to be archived as a forbidden book because of the content. Kamila explained the beautiful paintings which adorned the ceilings and showed us the hidden staircases to the second floor. She also impressed upon us the value of a single book to people in this time period by showing us a statue in one of the halls. The man is carrying his book around in a pouch, because having a book was like having a diamond, she said, and one did not leave it behind.

From the top of Castle Hill we had wonderful panoramic views of the city of Prague and great spring weather to enjoy the walk down the hill into the Lesser Town. During our walk we were able to see the Schwarzenberg Palace, the Archbishop’s Palace and the Sternberk Palace. We viewed the magnificent St. Vitus Cathedral and visited the former Royal Palace dating from the 12th century where Mr. Barmore told us the story of how horse manure and an event in this building led to the disastrous Thirty Years War in Europe. Continuing down towards Lesser Town, we walked through the Golden Lane, which students felt looked like something from Harry Potter stories and marveled at how short the doors were at the time.



Arriving in Lesser Town, we ate lunch, and then continued our walk. We stopped at the Lennon Wall which is a memorial to freedom of expression in Prague and the site where people in love have attached locks to the bridge as in many other cities. We then climbed the stairs from Lesser Town to the Charles Bridge which connects the two sides of Prague: Castle District / Lesser Town and Old Town / New Town / Jewish Quarter. Walking over the bridge provided us with incredible views of this beautiful city and Kamila told us several stories connected with the statues and the bridge.

We had started the day in a library and we would end our day in another.  On the way to the Market Square Kamila took us into a public library where, in the foyer, stood a tower of books, The Tower of Knowledge, comprised of 8,000 books.  This demonstrated how important the subject and history of books was to this beautiful city.  As Kamila had shown us in the Strahov library, a statue of an individual holding closely a small pouch;  she said it contained a book and books were like diamonds so one would not have left it behind but carried it with him.


We stopped in the Market Square for a short while where we could listen to a choir performing or purchase some souvenirs, before heading back to the hotel to get ready for dinner which would be back in the Market Square.



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Day 6 - Prague

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Our day in Prague was spent exploring the Jewish Quarter located just off the main Market Square because of the function of Jews in the city.  As we stood at the corner of the Market Square, Mr. Barmore spoke to us about the role of the Jews in the European Christian community.  We learned that the burghers [middle class] who competed with Jews in the marketplace here had asked Maria Theresa to expel them which she did , but within three years those same burghers were asking for the return of the Jews.  There were certain things Jews could do which Christians could not:  in particular, lend money with interest.  So the rulers brought in Jews but they were not protected by Christian law, so the king had to provide them protection as his property and grant privileges.  One of the privileges was the ability to build synagogues. 


The first synagogue we visited was the Starnova Synagogue,  also known as the Old-New Synagogue the oldest functioning synagogue in the world, built in 1270.   An example of Gothic architecture, Mr. Barmore pointed out that there had been changes to the structure – adding a section outside the original structure to accommodate women once they were including in prayer services, though they remained separate from the men.  Inside the synagogue Mr. Barmore showed us the necessary components of any synagogue, including the bima from which the Torah was read and he told us about the Hebrew inscription on the wall: "Greater is he who says amen than he who reads."




Here, Mr. Barmore also taught us that the use of star of David as a Jewish symbol originated in Prague. Displayed proudly in The Old-New Synagogue is the flag that the emperor allowed the Jews to hoist. The symbol on the flag is the star of David, or Jewish star which was the family symbol of the Cohen family, a prominent family in the congregation when the Jews made the flag. The star of David became the symbol of Judaism only in the 17th century.  The flag also displays the yellow hat, which was a derogatory symbol because the king made the Jews of Prague wear the yellow hat whenever they left the ghetto. Although it was originally meant to be disrespectful--it was the color yellow because that was a symbolic color of the plague--it later becomes a symbol of pride for the Jews, as they chose to take a negative and turn it into something positive that connected the community. It was also in the Old-New Synagogue that Mr. Barmore told us the story of the fabled Golom.



At the Pinkas Synagogue, we saw the memorial to the Jews of Prague andthe surrounding towns who the Nazis murdered during the Holocaust. On the walls of the synagogue, painstakingly painted by hand are the names of almost 80,000 Jews of Bohemia and Moravia who were victims of the Nazis.  They are organized alphabetically by town (in yellow), followed by the first and last name (in red) and the date of the last transport. 
Outside the Pinkas Synagogue is the Jewish cemetery with more than 12,000 tombstones.  


The original cemetery, when full, could not be expanded, and Jewish graves cannot be moved, so another cemetery layer was put on top.  It is important in Jewish culture that the names not be forgotten, so the tombstone of the original grave was removed and placed with the tombstone of the individual on the second layer.  Over the centuries, additional layers were added.  Because of hygiene concerns, no additional layers could be added after 1787.  There are up to twelve layers of graves in the cemetery, which explains the tombstones as they are seen today.


Our last synagogue in the Jewish quarter was the Spanish synagogue.  This was an ornate synagogue in the Moorish style.  Many Jews were apparently embarrassed by its opulence.  Mr. Barmore said some Jews felt it was less a place to pray than a place to be seen.  He pointed out the massive organ which might equally be found in a large cathedral. 

Standing in the Spanish synagogue, Mr. Barmore told us the story of the Hilsner Affair, which, like the more well-known Dreyfus Affair in France, involved a Jew who was tried not once, but twice, for an offense which he did not commit but for which he was sentenced to prison for life, demonstrating the depth of antisemitism which could be found in this area in the 19th century.    This affair was brought to the attention of a philosopher and teacher in Prague, Thomas Masaryk, who argued on behalf of Hilsner to no avail.  Later, after World War I, Masaryk went to the United States to fight for the creation of a Czech nation.  The biggest loser in terms of territory, from WWI was Germany.  The biggest winner was the new nation of Czechoslovakia.  When Masaryk returned to what would become Czechoslovakia he was hailed as a hero.  He demanded a constitution in which the nation embraced the Jew. This nation would be the only liberal state.  Poland, Hungary, Lithuania, all become antisemitic, fascist states.  Masaryk  presided over the nation during the interwar period and this is when many Jews become Czech.  They had been assimilated before but this is the only nation with which they identified.

After lunch at a pizza restaurant, we all had a little time to spend on the market square, tasting “fair food” ,  climbing the Clock Tower, listening to musical acts and watching street artists perform, including a ‘bubble blower”, shopping and just enjoying the beautiful weather and city of Prague.  Afterwards we walked back to the hotel to get ready for dinner at the Wine Food Market where we would dine with our very dear friends, Tony and Eva Vavrecka.  Eva is the niece of Otto Wolf, whose diary we read in our Holocaust classes and about whom we will be writing much more as our journey continues in a few days to Olomouc and Trsice.






Go to our YouTube Channel to view our 5 videos from today.

Day 7 - Prague - Terezin

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Today our itinerary called for us to visit the concentration camp of Theresienstadt [Terezin] and the Lidice memorial.  First, however, we made a stop at the Olsany Jewish Cemetery to pay our respects to our very dear friend, Pavel Stransky, who had been accompanying us since 1998 when Ms. Tambuscio started the Holocaust Study Tour.  Each year he met with our group and spoke to them about his experiences during the Holocaust, being interned in both Theresienstadt and Auschwitz and how he met and married his lovely wife, Vera.  “The Holocaust”, he would always say, “was for me also a love story.”  Pavel would then ride with us to Terezin and walk with us through the ghetto and the fortress.  Pavel passed away a few weeks ago and this would be the first group of students who would not have the privilege and honor of meeting this gentle and wonderful man, so we wanted to have a chance to pay our respects and say goodbye at his gravesite.  Ms. Tambuscio told all the students about what Pavel had been to the Holocaust Study Program over the years, and Shalmi  told us a little of his story and how Pavel, as such a gentle and kind man, personified the term “perseverance”, holding on to life through many difficult and horrific circumstances.
 
We stopped briefly by the grave of Franz Kafka where Shalmi told us that Kafka was considered the father of Holocaust literature although he died in 1924.  Shalmi said that Kafka wrote about the absurd and that the Holocaust was not only about brutality, it was also about the absurd and surreal, especially from the point of view of the victims.  He told us of one of Kafka’s short stories, The Trial, in which a man is arrested, tried, convicted and executed without ever being told what crime he was being accused of having committed.  The Jews, similarly, could not understand what they were guilty of.

Theresienstadt was one of those sites which was part of both Phase 2 ‘Concentration’ and Phase 3 ‘Annihilation’ about which Shalmi had spoken to us at the Wannsee House. When Germany invaded Czechoslovakia in 1939 there were 120,000 Jews in Bohemia and Moravia and the Nazis needed a place to concentrate them until they decided what to do with them.

Terezin was an existing walled in city outside of Prague which had been a garrison town established under Emperor Joseph II and named after his mother, Maria Theresa, to house the families of the soldiers who would be stationed at the Small Fortress nearby.  Terezin would be renamed Theresienstadt, the town would become the ghetto and the small fortress would become the concentration camp.  Theresienstadt would last from its establishment in October 1941 until its liberation at the end of the war, making it one of the longest lasting places established by the Nazis during the Holocaust.

At the ghetto museum we watched a film which included video clips of the propaganda film created by the Nazis called “A Gift of a Town” in which they had tried to dispel rumors of deplorable conditions in the ghettos which had been created by the Nazis.  We then walked through the exhibition with Shalmi and Kamila pointing out exhibits of special interest, including the children’s art, video testimony and even a large exhibit which listed all of the transports from Theresienstadt.  Kamila showed us on this exhibit, that Pavel’s transport which took him from Prague to  Theresienstadt was Transport IV/3  Designation AK  Left November 24, 1941 with 342 Jewish men. 

We next stopped at the prayer room which had been constructed by the Danish Jews who had been sent to Theresienstadt in October 1943.  Known as the Danish synagogue, it was discovered about 10 years ago.  Shalmi told us that the prayers on the walls reflected the heartbreaking dialogue of the Jews with their God.   Verses such as “We beg you, turn back from your anger and have mercy on the treasured nation that you have chosen” and “But despite all this, we have not forgotten your name.  We beg you not to forget us” were written on the walls. 




After lunch, we went into the Magdeburg Barracks which had housed the Jewish Council, leaders of the ghetto administration.  Shalmi led us through the exhibition,  which included a typical dormitory room, and sections devoted to the art, music, literature and theatre which ghetto residents left behind as their legacy.



Our last stop in Terezin was the  Small Fortress where Shalmi spoke to us  the purpose of concentration camps.  The concept of a concentration camp was invented by Soviet Russia to educate and produce a different person who would then comply with the regime and be able to be recycled into society.  Its function was to create conformity.  In these places your identity was taken away, you were never given enough food so there was constant hunger.  The camp was about submission and survival until one had undergone the change from a person to an object.  Jews were not placed in concentration camps for the most part, because the Jews, according to Nazi ideology, were a race of people and there was nothing that could be done to change that through a process of re-education.  Jews were in some concentration camps, later, for economic reasons, to use their labor before being murdered in death camps.  We visited the barracks section of the small fortress as well as the shower room and wash room, before getting back on the bus to head for Lidice. 


In June 1942, Heinrich Heydrich was assassinated in Prague and the Nazi leadership wanted someone to pay.  Lidice was a small town outside of Prague with about 500 inhabitants. On June 10, 1942 the Nazis descended upon this small town  in the mistaken belief that the residents had aided the paratroopers responsible for Heydrich’s assassination.  The men were all shot, the women were sent to Ravensbruck, very young children who could pass as Aryans were sent to Germany to be raised by German families, and 82 children who were older or who looked non-Aryan were transported to Lodz and then later to Auschwitz where they were murdered.

The Lidice memorial is to the memory of the 82 children.  It is a bronze monument which depicts the children in each of their images, from photographs.  There are 42 girls and 40 boys who look out over what used to be their village.  It is an extremely powerful memorial that made a significant impact on our group members. 








We returned to the hotel to get ready for our special dinner at the Restaurant Neboziezek which is on Castle Hill overlooking Prague.  Riding up to the restaurant on the funicular provided us with spectacular views of the city.  After a sumptuous dinner we returned to the hotel and said goodbye to our local guide Kamila as we will be leaving Prague tomorrow morning.




Student Reflections:

Caitlin says:
Visiting Terezin today, we got to explore the lives of different individuals within the camp and by doing that I felt that the Holocaust stopped being a story and became a reality.

Charlotte says:
Today was surreal because when I was in the Small Fortress at Terezin,  I felt like I was in a place where I was powerless.  In a huge place where people couldn’t control anything, I just felt so small.

Rose says:
Visiting Pavel’s grave first thing this morning was saddening to me because we didn’t get to hear his story.  But seeing everyone bring a stone to his grave to show respect felt like such a strong testament of our love.

Kyle says:
Visiting Terezin filled me with all different emotions from disbelief that these horrible things could even happen here to human beings just like us, to shock of how it almost looked like a normal town.

Cydney says:
I got a sick feeling in my stomach when I stood before the children’s memorial.  The different expressions and emotions shown in the children’s faces left me with a pit in my stomach.

Julia says:
I felt an emotional connection to the memorial to the children from Lidicie.  I saw a  boy and a girl standing next to each other and I thought of my brother and I and started to cry.  I cannot imagine my life changing that much within seconds.

Kayla says:
As we walked past the graveyard in Terezin, I noticed that instead of names, there were numbers.  I realized just how much the identities of the victims were stripped from them, as even after death they did not have a name.

Kelly says:
Today made me realize how faith in God can act as a catalyst for hope.

Autumn says:
Today was filled with all types of sadness, but one that struck my heart was Pavel’s grave.  Standing over him and never getting to meet him tell his love story almost had me in tears, as I put the stone on the tombstone to say my goodbye.   But now he is reunited with his true love and I want to thank him for everything he has done for this group.  RIP, Pavel.

Deanna says:
Today overall was very emotional and overwhelming.  The most touching part about today was seeing each individual face on the children’s memorial because they were each unique and realistic.


Seungyoon says:
The Small Fortress in Terezin was not a museum.  People were once living here and suffered, but now I’m standing here.  This was very surreal to me to imagine how the Jews were in these rooms before me.

Taylor says:
Visiting the memorial for the 82 children murdered in 1942 made a strong impression on me.  As I sat and thought of those children I became emotional thinking of each future of a child that never had the chance to grow up.

Camille says:
When I was looking at the children of Lidice, I felt they would come to life because they looked so real.

Henry says:
The crematorium was a cold room, seemingly calm, but it could never mask how efficiently they burned bodies here.

Caroline says:
I had a very uneasy feeling while looking at the children’s memorial.  It really made me question, “How could someone hurt a child?”

Alejandra says:
Today, visiting Terezin showed me how the nature surrounding the concentration came made it full of both life and death in the same spot.  This blend made the atmosphere of the area seem very surreal.

Karishma says:
Outside the crematorium is a maple stump – the seed given to Jewish children from a soldier.  Throughout the field are unmarked tombstones shaped to resemble tree stumps that I thought could symbolize children that had their lives taken.  9000 unknown burials, 9000 Jewish children deceased.

Darya says:
The fact that most of the concentration camp had bright colors to it gave off an eerie and surreal feeling because the events that occurred in such a place was the complete opposite of the bright and cheery appearance the ghetto gave off.

Julie says:
I was taken aback by the crematorium and standing in the doorway made me realize how many people the Holocaust really affected. 


Watch today's eight videos at our YouTube Channel














Holocaust Study Tour 2016

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Welcome to our Holocaust Study Tour 2016 Blog. We will be posting daily beginning on April 3rd. Please join us as we embark on this important educational journey and comment on our blog. We look forward to your insightful comments! To explore our additional social media options, visit this link for more information.http://www.newmilfordschools.org/Domain/313


Day 1 - Berlin, Germany

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The students from New Milford High School arrived this morning in Berlin and joined the students from Bishop O’Dowd High School who had arrived last night.  After a wonderful breakfast in our hotel, we boarded our bus with our local guide, Olaf and our historian, Shalmi Barmore and headed off to our first stop.  Our usual agenda for the city was changed as today Berlin was having a half-marathon which shut down many of the streets to traffic so that navigating the city was a challenge.  We, therefore, began at the German historical museum where Mr. Barmore would attempt to give context to the events we would be studying.  Olaf had told us on the bus ride to the museum that Germany became a nation in 1871.  Mr. Barmore began by discussing how nations are formed or crystallized around a common history and how nationalism played a significant role in the development of Nazism.   Before a statue of Germania, representing the strength and power of the German empire  we discussed how history is what we remember and how history is subject to interpretation and can be manipulated.  Continuing through the museum we stopped before a large painting of the crowning of Wilhem being crowned Emperor  in the Palace of Versailles following Germany’s success in the Franco-Prussian War of 1871.    Following Germany’s loss in World War I Versailles would have a new meaning for the Germany people and she would embark on a difficult fifteen year period with a new kind of government -  a republic – which would be destroyed by the rise of Nazism.  We analyzed posters from the two extremes on the political spectrum in Germany during the Weimar Republic (the  communists on the left and the Nazis on the right) and how both groups attempted to provide simple answers to complex problems in the society, manipulating the facts in order to generate followers.   We ended our visit to the museum before a model of the human body where Mr. Barmore talked about how Nazism came not just with a nationalistic message, but also a racial message; that all that all of the crises in Germany, including the loss of World War I, had happened because of an enemy that had been allowed to penetrate German society and was destroying it from within:  that enemy being the Jews.  If Germany were to cleanse itself of this group, and heed the wake up call of the Nazis, Germany would be able to regain her past glory.



After having lunch in the Potsdamer Platz, we visited the Berlin Memorial to the Murdered Jews of the Holocaust, designed  by Peter Eisenman and dedicated in 2005.  It consists of 2,711 concrete blocks or “stellae” arranged in a seemingly haphazard manner, on a sloping surface which rises and falls as one walks through the stellae.  After experiencing wandering through the memorial, students discussed with Olaf and Mr. Barmore,  the meaning of memorials and how traditional memorials differed from modern memorials, as well as the controversy which often accompanies creation of memorials.  Crossing the street to the Memorial of the Murdered Homosexuals, this discussion continued as Mr. Barmore spoke to us about the politics of memory: how memory is often used or maniplated for our needs today.



We then boarded the bus to head back to the hotel where we checked into our rooms and relaxed for a short time before heading to dinner.

















Day 2 - Berlin, Germany

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We began our day at the Brandenburg Gate, a powerful symbol of the Cold War  and the division  of Berlin into communist East Berlin and democratic West Berlin and how for years the world’s attention was focused on what happened here and the potential threat of a nuclear war.  Olaf then told us about the events in 1989 and the reaction of the people of Berlin – in the West and the East – to the wall coming down.


From there we walked across the street to the Memorial to the Sinti Roma dedicated in 2012 and commemorating the murder of an estimated 500,00 Sinti and Roma murdered by the Nazis in what the Roma [Gypsies] call the Porjamos (The Devouring).   The memorial was designed by an Israeli artist, Dani Karavan, and has a round reflecting pool around which is written the poem “Auschwitz” by Roma author Santino Spinelli.  Surrounding the pool are  broken stone slabs on which are carved the names of concentration camps and ghettos in which the Sinti Roma were inmates.  In the center of the pool is a triangle on which rests a single flower.  Each day the platform is lowered below the surface and then is raised with a fresh flower.

Mr. Barmore spoke of the complexity of the Nazi racial ideology.  He told us that Gypsies, originally from India, are actually Aryans, but that didn’t mesh with the Nazi view of Aryan supremacy that they were trying to promote, so their persecution of the Gypsy population was pursued on a sociological rather than racial basis.

Next we went into the Reichstag Dome  from which we could see wonderful panoramic views of the city of Berlin and we able to identify many landmarks we had already visited.

 













Our next stop would be the Jewish Museum of Berlin, designed by architect Daniel Libeskind, which   focused on 2,000 years of German-Jewish history.  Mr. Barmore then took us through the permanent exhibition.  First, he talked to us about the Jewish perspective until modernity.  Jews, he said, lived in Erez Israel until they were exiled by God [the Romans being merely a tool of God] for their sins.  Jews would then be dealing with God, keeping the law, living according to the Torah, until God saw fit to return them to their home.  Thus there developed a pattern of life, grounded in the Torah, an open account with God, which kept the Jews separate from the Christian society around them.  On the practical side, they needed to earn a living, often engaging in commerce.  The Christians  were also ambivalent towards the Jews, at best they were tolerated.  They had often been invited by the king to collect taxes or maintain records, were property of a king, and as such, were given certain privileges and were protected by him.  Another important and enduring feature of Jewish civilization is that Jews were literate and had always been literate.  From the age of 3, Jewish boys began to learn to read so that they could study the Torah.  Every Jewish male was literate and many Jewish women.  In contrast, the average European citizen began to be literate from the beginning of the 20th century when education began to be mandated. 

We  stopped before two marble statues - images traditionally found outside churches in medieval times, such as Notre Dame in Paris.  The statue on the left, beautiful and sighted, represented the Church and the blindfolded statue on the right represented the synagogue, which was unable to see the truth.   He said that no one can understand the Holocaust without understanding the roots of Christian antisemitism.  Nazi ideology cannot be disconnected from Christian antisemitism , and yet Christian antisemitism would never have committed genocide on the Jews.

We continued through the museum as Mr. Barmore discussed the rise of the German Jewish community into the middle class, their desire to become assimilated into German society.  German Jews had what Mr. Barmore called a “one-sided love affair.”  They wanted to be German, but the outside world would never accept them as such;  to most Germans, Jews could never be German.

In another empty space in the building, there was an exhibit by the Israeli artist, Menashe Kadishman, who called his installation “Fallen Leaves”, dedicating the more than 10,000 metal faces covering the floor, to all innocent victims of war and violence.  As the students walked through the void, stepping on the metal faces which created a cacophony of clanking, they reflected on the significance of this modern memorial as well as their level of comfort at walking through it.















 














After lunch we continued our day at the museum of Otto Weidt’s Workshop for the Blind.  In this factory, students heard from Olaf about the blind and deaf employees who made brooms and brushes for the war effort.  Otto Weidt protected his Jewish employees as well as a Jewish family of four which hid in a secret room built behind a secret wardrobe closet.  After eight months of hiding, the family was betrayed and deported to Auschwitz, where they were all murdered.  Olaf explained how Otto Weidt helped one employee, Inge Deutschkron, who is the survivor who returned to Berlin after the war and memorialized the rescue efforts of Otto Weidt by single-handedly creating this museum.

 





 




















Our last stop today was at a memorial to one of the lesser known events of the Holocaust.  In February 1943 a group of German Aryan women stood in front of the building at Rosenstrasse 2-4 which was serving as a detention center.  These women were married to Jewish men who had been rounded up to be deported.  For one week the women stood in front of the building, chanting “We want our husbands back!”  The Germans set up machine guns, threatening to fire on them, but the women would not back down.  Finally it was the Nazis who relented, releasing all their husbands.
This demonstrated, Mr. Barmore said, how even dictatorships cannot totally disregard public opinion and needs to be mindful as to what actions might be negatively viewed by the population.  It was also noted that there were many non-Jewish women across Europe, married to Jewish men, but this type of resistance only took place here, adding to the complexity of the study of the Holocaust and human behavior.






 We returned to the hotel to relax and get ready for dinner -  tonight at the Augustiner Brau in the Gendarmenmarkt. 
















Day 3 - Berlin, Germany

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Today was an amazing day of connections between history and the present day.  Our day began in a section of Berlin called the Bavarian Quarter, so named because many of the streets were named after towns and princes in the German state of Bavaria.  In this middle class section of the city, once lived an estimated 16,000 assimilated German Jews  most of whom would be murdered by the Nazis.  The modern memorial established in this areas is comprised of over 80 signs attached to poles throughout the quarter.  On one side of each sign is a city ordinance or law which had been enacted against the Jews during the period of 1933 to 1943, and on the other side is a picture or symbol which depicts the essence of that rule.
Several years ago we had passed a school while walking through the Bavarian Quarter and noted a wall of bricks in the school courtyard.  On each brick was written the name of a person,  the date of birth, and the date and place the place the person died or had been deported.   We wanted to know more about this project and meet with children of the school but this was not to happen as our trip had always coincided with their spring break ----- until today.   We were greeted at the Loecknitz Elementary School by the principal, Mrs. Christa Niclasen, and three wonderful 6th graders who would be making a presentation to us.  Mrs. Niclasen began by telling us about the school.  There are 400 students in the elementary school and it is a microcosm of the world.  She said there were international students from China and Turkey, for example, German children, Jewish children, as well as 25 refugees from Syria and Afghanistan.  The school building is 118 years old, built as a school in 1898 for Jewish students because on the school grounds was a synagogue.
The synagogue was not destroyed during the war but was torn down in 1956 because there were no Jews left in the Bavarian Quarter.  In the 1990’s a book was published about the memorial signs in the area and in the book were also listed 6,069 names sorted by streets and house numbers with the date of birth, and the location and date of death or deportation.  Students started asking about the signs on their street and they wanted to look at the list of names in the book, noting that someone who was deported by the Nazis had the same name or birthday, or had lived on their street, or in their apartment building.  They wanted to know more about these people and thus was born in 1994 an incredible educational project they call the Memorial for Jewish Citizens.  Mrs. Niclasen told us how she brought 25 yellow bricks to the school and each 6th grader chose a person,  writing their information on the brick.  They have a unit on National Socialism and the persecution of the Jews.  Then, in an annual celebration the students talk about their citizen and add the brick to the growing wall in the courtyard.  The project has become an annual event because each incoming 6th grade class is anxious to continue to learn about the people who lived in their community and were persecuted and murdered because they were viewed as different, and not to be included in the German society.  The wall now has 1,300 bricks and the ceremony has drawn Holocaust survivors who had lived in the area.  She told us about one survivor who learned about the project and wanted to meet the student who had prepared the stone.
Although the student had graduated, Mrs. Niclasen knew who the student was and was able to connect the survivor and the student in the school courtyard.  The student had chosen the citizen, Joachim Forder, because he had lived at the same address.  The student brought Mr. Forder to his apartment, and 70 years after he had been forced to leave, he was able to revisit his childhood home.




We were then introduced to Marouan, from Tunisia.  He told us of a Jewish saying “If people are forgotten, they die a second time.”  The students want to be sure citizens who lived in their neighborhood, are not forgotten; to keep their memory alive.   He showed us a suitcase which was another project they had done.  Jews were allowed to pack one suitcase as they were deported to the east -  destination unknown.  The suitcases were marked with the owner’s name, address, and often the transport number or date of birth.  Marouan told us about the suitcase for Alfred Israel Berger of 1 Stubbenstrasse and how they spoke of what might be included in his suitcase.   Evielin, from Georgia, and Elmin, from Turkey, then conducted an activity with us, in which they showed us a picture of one of the memorial signs in the quarter and asked if we could determine what the law or discriminatory rule was.  They then explained each of these signs and how each rule impacted the Jewish community.  For example, one picture was a loaf of bread and the  law was that  ‘Jews are only allowed to buy food between 4 and 5 in the afternoon’.    Marouan, Evelin and Elmin all delivered their presentations in English, which our students found amazing, and they were wonderful ambassadors for the school and the project.  We were then taken outside to the wall we had so wanted to visit and had time to closely inspect the stones.  Marouan showed us the stone for Alfred Israel Berger.  

The students then took us to 1 Stubbenstrasse  where Alfred Berger had lived and they showed us the stolpersteine [stepping stones] before the building.  Stolpersteine are brass plaques placed throughout Berlin and other European cities, where Jews lived before being deported.  Each plaque had the name, date of birth, date of deportation and date and place of death.  As Marouan, Evelin and Emlin left us to return to school, we had the chance to walk around the Bavarian Quarter, noting several signs.


This was a truly unique opportunity for our students and we want to thank Mrs. Niclasen for being such an inspiring educator and all of the 6th graders, past and present, who have voluntarily decided to be a part of such a meaningful project.  And of course, a special thank you to our new friends, Marouan, Evelin and Emlin.  We learned so much from you and believe you truly live your school’s mission:  Our school doesn’t forget the past, shapes the present courageously, and prepares the future with responsibility.   It was noted that in such a diverse school the goal was to ensure these students understood the consequences of discrimination and developed a sense of appreciation for their differences and an empathy towards each other.

After lunch, we went to the Wannsee House.  It was in this house, located on the beautiful waterfront lake, Wannsee, that representatives of the bureaucratic agencies would meet on January 20, 1942 for a luncheon over which they would discuss how to implement the plan known as the Final Solution.  Mr. Barmore told us the Nazis were faced with a paradox:  they came to power in 1933 and wanted to solve the “Jewish Question”, but did not know how.  The Nazi ideology was racist and about the survival of the fittest [the Aryan race], but in the beginning they were more about expulsion of Jews from society rather than their annihilation.  On the one hand, they wanted to eliminate Jews from society, but on the other, they didn’t have a clue as to how they were going to accomplish their goal.  Yet in nine years, there would be 5 factories of death operating in Poland, with precisely that function.  So how did they arrive at 1941, doing exactly what they could not conceive of doing in 1933?

Therefore there were three phases in the Twisted Road to Auschwitz, I-Emigration and Legislation, II-Ghettoization, and III-Annihilation.   Through this process the Nazis came to be what they could not conceive of when they initially came to power.  Heydrich and representatives of the bureaucratic agencies which would be used in the  murder of  Europe’s Jewish population delineated the process for it here,  over lunch, in this house where we now stood.

Our next visit was to the train station in Grunewald, a very wealthy residential area of Berlin.  It was from this train station, beginning on October 18, 1941, that most of Berlin’s Jewish residents were to be deported.  Olaf showed us three memorials at Grunewald to the deportation.  The first memorial was a cross section of railroad ties in front of the entrance to the train station, established by a local group of Lutheran women in 1987, with a plaque commemorating the beginning of the deportations and a group of trees which had been brought from Auschwitz and planted there.  The second memorial was a wall which depicted figures as they walked up the hill to the train platform to be deported.    The third memorial established by the  German Railroad, was two platforms lined by plaques which represented each deportation train from Grunewald, listing the date, the number of Jews and the destination of the train, including Theresienstadt, Lodz, Riga and Auschwitz.







Our last stop of the day was another special educational opportunity for our group.  Mr. Barmore had met a film producer, Mathias Schwerbrock, who had been working with an agency which was helping recent refugees to Germany.  In the past two days, due to the efforts of Mr. Schwerbrock, Mr. Barmore, and Olaf, we were going to be able to meet with some refugees.  Mr. Schwerbrock met with us first and gave us some historical background about refugees and Germany.  He told us that between the period of 1992-2002, there had been an estimated 100-150 asylum seekers killed in attacks on their living quarters, often in fires caused by Molotov cocktails.  There had also been more than one hundred attacks in Germany since 2015 and the recent influx of refugees from the Middle East.  We also learned about a right-wing group, the National Socialist Underground [NSU].  450 warrants had been issued for known members of the NSU but they had not been arrested, because their location was currently unknown.  He also told us about the elections last month in which the anti-refugee party, Alternative fur Deutschland [AfD] had made dramatic gains in regional elections, gaining seats in state parliaments in three regions. 


We then walked to the hotel were refugees were being housed and met Martin, a social worker from a non-profit agency working with the refugees.  He told us how most refugees were housed in gymnasiums or a converted old airport, where refugees might be in large rooms with hundreds of people, unable to separate and have privacy, living there fore three months or more until their status was determined.  This hotel was the first of an expected twenty future hotels which was being used to get some of these refugees, in particular those families with children, and people with disabilities, into more humane and normal living conditions.   We also learned that the future status of the refugees and their desire to remain in Germany might hinge upon whether they were regarded as from unsafe countries (such as Syria) who were coming to save their life, or a country deemed safe [Iraq or sometimes even Afghanistan] and were coming for economic reasons.


After a brief tour of the hotel and the facilities provided for the refugees, such as a breakout conference room for the teenagers, an art room to provide art therapy for the children, and a playroom for the children, we were introduced to a brother and sister, Mohammad, 17, and Sanaz, 16, who had escaped with their family from Herat, Afghanistan, after several kidnappings of their father, who had to be ransomed back, and threats by Taliban members to kill the children.  Mohammad and Sanaz were able to communicate directly with us as they spoke English.


Their story of the family’s harrowing two and a half month escape, walking through Iran and Turkey, traveling in a small unstable plastic boat across the Aegean to the Greek island of Lesbos, terrified as the boat took on water, then walking through Slovenia and Slovakia, to Austria and finally Germany, touched all of us.  Sanaz told us her father had been captured and returned to Afghanistan, but once in Germany, the non-profit agency had been able to locate him and he would be coming in one week to Berlin.  We were struck by their courage, their lack of anger and their optimism in the face of all they had experienced in their young lives.  We hope to remain in contact with these amazing young people and learn more about their fate. 






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Student Reflections:

Wanlin says :  At the Bavarian Quarter School today I learned from three 6th grade students how they wanted to continue the legacy of building a memorial to victims of the Holocaust who lived in their neighborhood. I was surprised by their dedication to the project and their ability to communicate their personal experiences with the stories of each individual they researched.

Dave says: Today our talk with the Afgani refugees brought up this question in my mind, "Is the world going stand by and watch this or do something to help the situation?" This question confronted the world before during the Holocaust and how a nation responds is critically important. I hope for the sake of these two teenages I met today, Mohammed and Sanaz that the world doesn't sit by passively.

Bryce says: - Refugees: While the absence of difficulties may otherwise breed indifference, these families having to struggle for 50 days only for a chance at a better life ultimately cultivates character in a way no other experience can.  I was humbled in the shadow of their grave and immiduate threats to their safety and secuirty when compared to the much smaller problems we have in the United States.


Mary says:- The school we visited today is a perfect example of connecting the past to the present in an extraordinary way. The younger generation is able to make connections to the past and understand the history that fills their city and teach it in a more modern way. The names that make up the wall will never be forgotten and we have these amazing children to thank for that.

Alysia says:  I was told today of Jewish saying - When someone is forgotten he dies a second death. This saying influences every thought and saying of the children and teachers in the Bavarian Quarter school because they all have devoted their time to ensure that the Jewish victims would not fade into history. One way that they do this is with their yellow brick wall that 6th graders are able to add on to each year that has the names of these victims so that they might never be forgotten.

Saige says:  Today I was very impressed with the 6th graders at the Bavarian Quarter School.  I cannot imagine being that age and understanding the historical significance of my neighborhood while willingly participating in the creation of a memorial that remembers those lost to the Holocaust.

Lizzy says:  I was amazed today by meeting two young Afghani refugees. All I have been hearing back home is that refugees are extremists who endanger the well being of their host countries. What I saw today flies in the face of that. The two refugees I met and the young children I saw today represent the neediest of humanity - I am hopefull for their futures and I am glad I learned the truth about their situation.

Erika says:  Education from a young age is one of the most essential ways to create a compassionate generation who not only acknowledges and shows respect to the history of their nation, but will prevent tragedies from happening in the future. The kids we met today at the Bavarian Quarter Elementary School proved that the Holocaust and its victims will never go unremembered. As they are surrounded by memories every day and each year work to build a memorial to those who fell as victims, a hope for future generations is made clear.

Stephanie says:  Today while visiting the elementary school we learned about how Holocaust education can greatly impact a student. The principal of the school told us of a story of a student from Lebanon named Mustafa who refused to add a brick to the memorial that the school personally builds throughout the years because he did not want to lay a brick for a person who was a part of the people who were in war with his people. But the boy met a survivor and heard her story and it changed his view on the matter of putting a brick so he went to the princpal the next day and told her that he would like to create a brick for the memorial. After hearing the story, I thought about how a story from one survivor changed one's perspective and help shape a better future.

Brandon says:  Today we visited an elementary school in Berlin that was an original Jewish school during the Holocaust. In the school the students did a project in which they wrote the name of a Jewish victim from their neighborhood on a brick and they researched their story. This showed how close to home the Holocaust and the discrimination of the Jews was to these kids.

Fiona says: At the end of the day we visited a hotel in Berlin which acts as a home for refugees where there we were given a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to talk to two teenage Afghani refugees about their long and draining 50 day journey.  As the brother and sister, 17 and 16 years old, talked about the struggles they faced, from being separated from their father to becoming extremely ill, I not only became moved and humbled by their resilience, but I reflect upon the manner in which society treats the refugees.  Many people today, especially in America, view the refugees as threats. After listening to Mohammed and Sanaz talk, it became clear that it is time for people in America to educate themselves on this issue and come to treat these refugess as the strong and brave individuals that they are.

Justin says:  After a full day of learning and visiting some amazing sites, we went to a hotel, and after being shown around the premises and seeing the amenities, we sat down and listened to the stories of two young refugees from Afghanistan.  They spoke of their struggles with warlords and terrorists back home, their appreciation for Berlin, and their ambitions for the future.  I am not only grateful for the opportunity to speak one on one with real refugees after seeing them sensationalized and objectified in the media, but am humbled to have been in the presence of children who have been through so much.

Nikki says: The children's candid and detailed knowledge of the Holocaust at the Bavarian Quarter School perfectly embodies the young German generation's sensibility; this response was not only unexpected for children their age, but also uniquely personal because of the visible connection to their community.

Kaitlyn says: At the Bavarian Quarter School children of different ages, cultures, religions and ethnicity engage in social interaction and a part of history that is difficult for adults to discuss.  There is a level of empowerment and encouragement that I saw in this school and these children. They amazed me with their dedication to the memorial project commemorating their former Jewish neighbors.  This open mindedness shows how their work will help shape future generations.

Chanila says: Understanding what has happened to the refugees by first hand experiences was unbelievably surreal.  Listening to two young teenagers about their stuggles to leave their homeland that is filled with violence caused me to realize how not everything is black and white. There is more to a story than what the news reveals and it seems that not everything that is on the news is accurate.  I realized that the American people need to stop relying so much on the media and get out into the world and see for themselves what is really happening in the world.

Day 4 - Berlin - Dresden - Prague

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This morning we loaded our suitcases onto the bus and began our two hour drive to the town of Dresden. This would be the first time we stopped in Dresden, as in prior years we had traveled by train from Berlin to Prague. As we entered the city, Olaf told us that Dresden, which means “the people living next to the forest”, was a traditional medieval city, first mentioned in 1206, and was the capital of the principality of Saxonia, now the state of Saxony. Dresden has a population of about 500,000 and is famous for its Christmas market, the historic young men’s choir, Cross Choir, dating back to 1300, and is the city where the first European porcelain was manufactured. We learned that in February 1945, shortly before the end of the war, the Allies bombed Dresden reducing almost everything in the city to rubble, partly in retaliation for the German bombing of Coventry, but also, as Mr. Barmore would later tell us, to break the German spirit, inasmuch as the city was so symbolic to the Germans. After the war, the city of Dresden was rebuilt as closely as possible to what had existed before the bombing, including the historic buildings.

We had learned from Olaf that Germany now has 16 states, but Mr. Barmore said that in order to form the German nation, in the 19thcentury, it necessitated the unification of more than 400 ‘units’, such as Saxony (Dresden), Prussia (Berlin), and Bavaria (Munich). One of the main forces for unification of these units: there was one culture. As he said, culture cemented people before politics. Saxony became so important in the 17thand 18th centuries because it epitomized the Age of Baroque. The Baroque style of architecture was quite ‘busy’ he said and the Palace of Versailles in France became the standard against which all other buildings of this period were measured.

We walked through the courtyard of the magnificent Zwinger palace into a large square where we could view the Catholic Church of the Cross and the National Opera House. In this new nationalism of the 18thcentury, we were told, museums, theatre and opera, became institutions that expressed culture so that every country needed to have a nationalsymphony or a nationalmuseum - by which the cultural identity could be expressed.



Our next stop was the New Green Vault, which houses one of the richest treasure chambers in the world: more than 1,000 examples of Baroque jewelry art. Mr. Barmore had told us that the Baroque period manifested itself in competition - demonstrations of wealth by various rulers – and that was definitely apparent in this exhibit, culminated by the exhibit of the precious green diamond, purchased by August III in 1742.

We ate lunch in a charming medieval-style restaurant, where we were joined by our Prague guide, Kamila who would be talking over for Olaf as we continued our journey. We walked around the town of Dresden for a short while, learning about the importance of processions during the period as we viewed the Furstenzug, a large mural of a mounted procession of the rulers of Saxony, and enjoying the beautiful market squares and surrounding buildings. We made a brief stop at the train station where we said goodbye to Olaf, our Berlin/Dresden guide and to Jeff, our security detail, and then headed south to Prague, following the course of the Elbe River, admiring the beautify scenery of the Czech Republic.

Arriving in Prague, we checked into our hotel, located in the center of the city, and then headed off to dinner at the Municipal House









Day 5 - Prague

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Our day began with a bus ride up to the hills overlooking the beautiful city of Prague to Prague Castle, the largest castle complex in Europe.  During the ride, our local guide Kamila, told us a little about the geographical layout of the city as well as some of the history.  The capital city of the Czech Republic has a little more than one million residents, and is called Praha, which means ‘threshhold’ because as she told us, one never knows when they are crossing the threshold from history to mythology in this city.   She told us to look for the many church spires.  “So many churches”, she said, “but the country is atheist.”  Kamila  described some of the changes in the city since the Velvet Revolution in 1989 which ended communist rule, such as the buildings were no longer just gray, but were colorfully painted, and citizens had more variety in consumer goods and also more availability.   

We started at the Strahov Monastery which was run by Norbertine friars who came to Prague in the 12thcentury from France, selling their services as bibliophiles (librarians) and scribes (copiers of books).  A special VIP tour had been arranged for us and we were able to physically enter the two beautiful halls of the library, one for theological works and one for philosophical works.  The library contains over 45,000 volumes of work dating back to the 10thcentury, demonstrating how the church institutions were the repositories and guardians of much of the European culture.  One book we saw was written in 860, which made it older than the country itself, which was first mentioned in 880.   In the Hall of the Censors we learned how the friars would determine whether a book was acceptable to the church or needed to be archived as a forbidden book because of the content.  And in the Theological Hall we saw the gold cages where the forbidden books would be locked away from view.   She also impressed upon us the value of a single book to people in this time period by showing us a statue in the Theological Hall:  the man is carrying his book around in a pouch, because having a book was like having a diamond, she said, and one did not leave it behind.  Mr. Barmore also demonstrated his favorite piece of furniture in the hall, a book holder which could have several books and which one could turn to refer to another book to check the information.  As Mr. Barmore said, a very early form of today’s hypertext.  Kamila explained the beautiful paintings which adorned the ceilings in both halls and showed us one of the hidden staircases to the second floor in the Philosophical Hall. 








From the top of Castle Hill we had wonderful panoramic views of the city of Prague and took advantage of the wonderful weather to take numerous photographs, then climbed back on our bus to visit the U.S. Ambassador’s residence.   There we were greeted by Ambassador Andrew Schapiro’s wife, Tamar Newberger who spent the next two hours telling us about the fascinating history of the residence, her husband’s career and appointment as ambassador to the Czech Republic by President Obama in 2014, and graciously showing us through their home.  We were joined at the residence by our dear friends, Tony and Eva Vavrecka.  Eva is the niece of Otto Wolf, whose diary our students study in our Holocaust classes, and about whom we will talk more later. 



The residence was built in 1929 by Otto Petschek, a Czech Jew, who had made his money in the coal industry.  This was to be his dream house and he built a smaller, second home next door from which he could oversee every facet of construction.  Ms. Newberger told us that we would see many examples in the house of two of his passions:  technology and symmetry.  Otto and his wife, wife their oldest son and three daughters moved in to the completed house in 1929 but sadly he did not enjoy it for long, as he died of a heart attack in 1934.   Coincidentally, Otto had two brothers who also built huge villas in the neighborhood:  one is currently the residence of the ambassador from China, the other, the residence of the ambassador from Russia.   In 1938 one of these brothers correctly sensed the impending danger to Czechoslovakia from Hitler, and took a train around Bohemia, picking up every Petschek he could, finally gathering up Otto’s widow and daughter Eva who were still in Prague and getting everyone out of the country.  No Petschek died in the Holocaust, she said, which is an unusual story in itself.  They were forced to leave all the household furniture, art, books, and personal belongings, most of which are still in the residence today.  When the Nazis invaded and occupied Czechoslovakia, the General Toussaint, the Germany general in charge of the city, would be headquartered in this house.  They kept the beautiful furnishings, china, chandeliers, even the library, in tact, including ironically, the encyclopedia of Jewish history.  They also did an inventory  of everything and one table in the foyer still bears the Nazi inventory stamp.  The general, however, did care about the residence and treated it well, so that when the Allies liberated Prague, the home was in good condition.  The Soviets stayed in the residence for a few days and destroyed some of the chandeliers and furniture, but when the Czech government took control, it was largely in the shape that the Petscheks had left it when they fled in 1938.   Later, the United States purchased the villa in 1946 and it has served as the residence of the U.S. ambassador since that time. 

                                          Click on video







Ms. Newberger then told us about her husband’s distinguished legal career, including clerking for Supreme Court Justice Harry Blackmun, and serving as a federal appellate attorney, culminating in  his recent appointment as ambassador.  From Chicago, Andrew Schapiro has a close personal connection with Prague.  His mother, Raya Czerner Schapiro, is a Czech survivor of the Holocaust and lived with her family just a few blocks from where we were sitting.  Ms. Newberger told us the fascinating story of the Czerner family during the Holocaust, which is chronicled in his mother’s book, Letters from Prague:  1939-1941. 


Lastly, we were shown around the residence.  We had been told to look for technology and symmetry and we saw multiple examples of both.  From the Winter Garden, where an entire glass wall could be lowered into the ground during nice weather and raised during winter but allowing beautiful panoramic views of the garden, to doors that weren’t doors but provided balance in a room, to the old elevator, and so many more examples, it is truly a special house. 





After taking group photos in the backyard of this beautiful home, we thanked Ambassador Schapiro’s wife, Tamar, said goodbye to the Vavreckas and headed back to the Castle District for the afternoon.  We visited the magnificent St. Vitus Cathedral which took 600 years to complete and inside Kamila explained the beautiful stained glass windows.  We continued our walk with wonderful views and outside the Royal Hall of the Palace, Mr. Barmore told us the story of how horse manure and a defenestration from this building led to the disastrous Thirty Years War in Europe. 

Arriving in Lesser Town, we ate lunch at a pizza restaurant, and then continuing back towards the central square, stopped at the Lennon Wall which is a memorial to freedom of expression in Prague and the site where people in love have attached locks to the bridge as in many other cities.   We then climbed the stairs from Lesser Town to the Charles Bridge which connects the two sides of Prague: Castle District / Lesser Town and   Old Town / New Town / Jewish Quarter.  Walking over the bridge provided us with incredible views of this beautiful city and Kamila told us several stories connected with the statues and the bridge.  Several students stopped to make a wish and rub the statue. 


We stopped in the Market Square for a short while before heading back to the hotel to get ready for a pasta dinner at Hotel U Prince, back in the Market Square. 




Student Photographic Reflections:

















                                                          - Stephanie




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