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Day 8- Lostice, Czech Republic

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This morning we said goodbye to Prague and headed east to our next hotel stop, Olomouc. We had said goodbye to Kamilla last night after our dinner at Nebozizek overlooking Prague, and this morning we said hello to our new guide, Ilona, who will be accompanying us from Prague to Olomouc and Trsice, and will be leaving us when we get to Poland. On the way we stopped in the town of Lostice, a town of about 3,000 people, and were met by the town historian and Director of the Respect and Tolerance program in Lostice, Ludek Stipel. Mr. Stipel took us to the former Lostice synagogue and gave us the history of the Jews in Lostice, often mentioning dates and events that we had heard before from Shalmi, such as the Thirty Years War 1618-1648 and the 1848 emancipation of the Jews. We learned that the Jews of Lostice were very much assimilated into the community and he said he had been unable to find any record of any prejudice or acts of violence against the Jews, noting to the contrary, that there had been an atmosphere of cooperation between the Jewish community and the Catholics.


During World War II, 59 Jews from Lostice had been sent to concentration camps and after the war, only 3 returned ---several members of the Hirsch family: mother, father and one daughter. The Jewish community of Lostice was not revived and the synagogue was closed and used for storage. After the parents died, the daughter Greta Hirschova moved away, and there were now no Jews in Lostice.
In 2006 the restoration of the synagogue by Mr. Stipel’s organization was begun and they completed it in 2011. No longer a functioning synagogue, it is now a center of learning for schools, teachers, and community members, all with the goal of preserving memory. The pews in the center are from the Olomouc synagogue, destroyed by the Nazis in 1939. Each of the 21 seas is dedicated to victims of the Holocaust from Lostice and surrounding towns. Each of the seats had a compartment dedicated to one of more families, and inside the compartment were everyday objects from the period and photos which were somehow linked to the people to whom that box was dedicated. In the box for Otto Wolf there were several items including pages from his diary, photos of his family and a spoon. We were all fascinated by these compartments and we spent some time looking through them. Mr. Stipel explained how these objects were used to teach both the history of the Jews in the area and the history of the Holocaust to children.


Upstairs we were shown the Otto Wolf library which had been established because of donations from Eva and Tony Vavrecka and is an integral part of the educational programs which the center sponsors for students and teachers.
Next we were shown a section of the documentary film which the Respect and Tolerance program produced with portions of Otto Wolf’s diary read by Czech students in English. We were all extremely impressed with what Mr. Stipel had been able to establish in such a short period of time, using the most current best practices in education.
Mr. Stipel then showed us into a small reception room where the Municipal Council had prepared a small reception of drinks and cheese. Lostice is famous for its cheese called Tvaruzky, and we were touched once again by the gracious hospitality which we shown.
Leaving the synagogue we traveled to the Jewish cemetery which had been used since the 15thcentury until the last burial in May 1942, one month before the deportation transports left from this area. Shalmi asked us to notice how many of the Jewish headstones in the 19thcentury were written in German, which we were able to connect to the point he had made many times earlier about how the Jews were trying to assimilate and absorb German language and culture. Mr. Stipel showed us several headstones and told us stories he had learned about these individuals including the wife of a rabbi, Fanny Neuda, who had written a book in the mid-19th century, Hours of Devotion, which is believed to be the first prayer book written by a woman for Jewish women. Written in German, it has been translated dozens of times into many languages and now Mr. Stipel is working to have it translated into Czech.
We said goodbye to our new friend, Mr. Stipel and headed on to Olomouc. After checking into our hotel rooms, our guide Ilona took us on a walking tour of the town of Olomouc, including the square, the astrological clock, the model of the town and the cathedral. At 6 o’clock we arrived at the Jewish Community Center and were met by Petr Papousek, the head of the Jewish Federation of the Czech Republic and the leader of the Olomouc Jewish community. Grandson of our dear friend, Milos Dobry, who passed away last November, Petr showed our group the small synagogue in the Jewish center, the prayer blanket which was used for Torah readings which was donated after the war by Otto Wolf’s father in memory of his sons, Kurt and Otto, and spoke to us about the slow but steady growth of the Jewish community in the area. There are currently 154 members of the Olomouc Jewish community; ½ are from Olomouc and ½ are from surrounding towns. They have a social department and a Holocaust endowment fund which allows them to take care of survivors, they have shabat services, cultural events and a monthly journal. Two years ago, we were honored to have been invited to attend their Seder service when we were here.

After his talk, we walked to the restaurant where we were met by the Vavreckas who arrived this afternoon, as well as Global Post reporter Bruce Konviser, all of whom have come for the dedication ceremonies tomorrow honoring the town of Trsice for its efforts to rescue the Wolf family. After another wonderful dinner, during which we celebrated two 18th birthdays of members of our group, we headed back to our hotel where we reflected in journaling and discussion, what we had experienced today.

Student Reflections

Helen says:
The classroom/synagogue at Lostice gave me the chance to explore and interact with objects of everyday people in the context of the Holocaust. It personalized the Holocaust and allowed unintimidating exploration of the subject; something I haven’t experienced before. This environment made me realize what is possible to keep the message of the Holocaust current and relatable for new generations.

Allie says:
At all the very old, very beautiful synagogues we’ve visited, you can tell there used to be a very vibrant Jewish community, but now, only a few are actually functioning. Most are museums and only one community here in Olomouc, has enough Jews to warrant a functioning synagogue. Even that one went from a huge, beautiful temple to a small, nondescript room in an apartment building. The absence is very present. In the towns, the streets where the Jews once walked are full once again but the synagogues remain empty.

Guage says:
Today was interesting. We awoke early and set out for Lostice. On the way we visited a synagogue that was both beautiful and plain. The reason for this is because of the damage done to it. We also saw a very old Jewish cemetery today. The view from the cemetery was perfect for one’s eternal resting place.

Kelly says:
I found it amazing that in Lostice non-Jewish people maintained the synagogue and use it to educate schools in the area about Jewish history. Their interactive way of teaching is perfect for children so they can understand a topic as difficult as the Holocaust. They accomplish this by using pictures and other items to illustrate the lives of the victims emphasizing that these people could have been anyone.



Day 9 - Trsice

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Today’s schedule of activities represented the culmination of five years of planning to honor the town of Trsice for hiding the family of Otto Wolf for 3 years during World War II.  We first made the connection on our annual Holocaust Study Tour in 2008 that Olomouc and Trsice were the towns Otto Wolf refers to in his diary which is one of the diaries in Salvaged Pages that we all study in our classes.   Milos Dobry, Holocaust survivor and friend first showed us the hideouts in the forest and introduced us to the mayor of Trsice.   Over the ensuing years, between our visits and contacts during the year, with Milos’ grandson, Petr Papousek, leader of the Jewish Community of Olomouc and Leona Stejskalova, the mayor of Trsice, we arranged for a memorial to be erected in the forest last year, paid for by the students of our three high schools in New Jersey [New Milford High School], St. Thomas Aquinas High School and California [Bishop O'Dowd High School, and this year a memorial would be dedicated in the town itself, sponsored by Dr. Joan Silber,  of the U.S. Commission for the Preservation of America’s Heritage Abroad.  This memorial was one of the direct results of an official memorandum which was signed last year during our visit to Trsice, signifying cooperation between the Jewish Community of Olomouc and the organization for the destroyed Czech villages and towns of World War II, known formally as the Organization for the Support of Burned Villages.  This memorandum was drafted and signed before us and the signatories acknowledged that it was the work of the Holocaust Study Tour which had brought this memorandum to life. 

 
There were three projects that were to be completed from this memorandum:
1.   The Jewish Community of Olomouc will provide resources for a new memorial in Trsice.
2.   The memorial to the rescuers and their families that we are dedicated last year to the town. 
3.   A new museum in Trsice about this history where the first artifact included will be the pen used to sign this memorandum.
 
The first two projects have been completed and we look forward to the museum, as well as future projects that this cooperation can accomplish. 

In Trsice we were joined by Petr Papousek and Bruce Konviser, the Global Postreporter as well as Dr. Brezina and his granddaughter.   As we walked into the Town Hall, a former castle dating back to the 15th century, we were greeted at the entry, as we have always been, by Mayor Leona and her staff who offered us the traditional Czech greeting:  bread dipped in salt and a little plum brandy, and several members of the Boy Scout troop who we had met last year and would be spending the day with us.
 
Inside the building we were officially greeting by the mayor, who stood before a large traditional Czech wedding cake decoration which she thought we might like to see.  Dr. Brezina, who was 5 when the Wolfs went into hiding and never knew Otto Wolf, but met the surviving Wolfs after the war and had been to the hideouts, told his story, and then Mrs. Ohera, whose family had provided food and shelter for the Wolfs and whose father was one of the 19 men rounded up and killed by the Nazis in April 1945, told of her memories. 

After we signed the official town records book for visitors, we headed down the hill to the restaurant where the town hosted a lunch for us, the Vavreckas and the Boy Scouts.  As the time for the memorial unveiling approached, we left the restaurant and as we did so we noticed from every street, townspeople walking down the hill, up the streets, converging on that area which was the town square and site of the memorial.   It was a wonderful and moving sight to see how supportive of the memorial the people of the town were as we all met and stood before the blanketed memorial.  The police had stationed a car at the end of the street and an officer redirected any cars from the other end of the street – though there is not much traffic in Trsice. 
 
Petr Papousek opened the ceremonies with a history of the memorial project, and introductions of the visiting dignitaries:  the Governor of Olomouc, the Senator from the area, the parliamentary representative, Mayor Leona and other mayors from surrounding towns.  Our guide Ilona provided the translations for us. 
There were several speeches from each of the officials.  Petr then thanked and introduced the individual who made this memorial possible, Dr. Joan Silber, who spoke and thanked the people of the town for their bravery and resistance in the face of Nazi oppression.  She also thanked the lead teacher of our group, Mrs. Colleen Tambuscio, for all of her efforts to bring about this memorial dedication.  Eva Vavrecka was then introduced and she also thanked the people of Trsice for helping her family and for their continued efforts to keep the memory of her uncle, through his diary, alive.  
 
After Dr. Joan Silber and the Governor of the Olomouc Regional Government unveiled the memorial, two of the Boy Scouts, standing before the memorial,  read excerpts from Otto’s diary. 
 
The inscription on the memorial in Czech and English reads:

            “When the Nazi Germans imprisoned and killed large numbers of the Jewish population of Europe, citizens of Trsice hid members of a Jewish family – Berthold, Ruzena, Felicitas, and Otto Wolf – from 1942 until 1945 at great risk to their own lives. 
Initially this heroic act was done by Jaroslav Zdaril of hn (house number) 172, Ludmila Chodilova nee Ticha of hn 290 and Oldrich and Marie Oher from Zakrov of hn 1.  As time went on many other citizens of Trsice learned of the hiding place and kept the secret.
This monument honors them and the memory of Jewish residents of Trsice, Anna, Blanka, and Eliska Kornbluh who were found and sent to the Terezin camp on 26.6.1942, and then on 20.8.1942 to Riga, Lithuania where they were murdered.”

“The Jewish Community of Olomouc, the town Trsice, the Olomouc Regional Government and the Organization for the Support of Burned Villages with support from the U. S. Commission for the Preservation of American’s Heritage Abroad made possible by Member Joan Ellyn Silber and by Sherman J. Silber”
 
To conclude the ceremonies, Petr read a prayer in Hebrew, and then there were lots of photos and interviews by the press and representatives of the various groups.

After the ceremony, we said goodbye to the Vavreckas, Mayor Leona and Mrs. Ohera and climbed on the bus to take us to the entry point into the forest to visit the memorial we dedicated last year.   Some of the Boy Scouts accompanied us into the forest as Shalmi, our intrepid leader, helped maneuver us through the muddy pathways.  Upon reaching the memorial, we discovered that the Boy Scouts had once again set up a clothesline on which were hung pages from the Holocaust Study Tour book from the previous year, as well as newspaper accounts of last year’s memorial dedication. 
 


At the memorial sight, Shalmi asked those assembled, both students and scouts:  What made some people leave before the deportations began?  Why did some people, when they received their ‘invitations’ (deportation notices) report to the address noted?  Why did others like the Wolf family, upon receiving their notices choose to go into hiding?    What do you believe you would have done?  These questions fostered a lively discussion at the end of which Shalmi said, “I didn’t ask you these to get an answer; because there are no answers.  This is something that people struggle with --- where would I have been?”

After hiking out of the forest we headed for Oswiecim, Poland, the town where Auschwitz is located.   Auschwitz was the Germanization of the Polish name, Oswiecim.  We are staying tonight in the Centre for Dialogue and Prayer which was established in 1992.  It is a Catholic institution founded by the Archbishop Franciszek Cardinal Macharski in cooperation with the bishops of Europe, in agreement with the representatives of Jewish organizations.  The aim of the centre which was built in the neighborhood of Auschwitz, is to create a place for reflection, education, sharing and prayer.  We will be staying here overnight so that we can get an early start visiting Auschwitz I and Auschwitz-Birkenau.   We were greeted briefly by Sr. Mary O’Sullivan who led us to the dining hall where we ate and met our local guide for Poland, Eva, with whom we have worked for many years.

We checked into our rooms and Shalmi then proceeded to give us the foundational information about Auschwitz prior to our visit tomorrow. 


Day 10 - Auschwitz

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“The one who does not remember history is bound to live through 
it again.” --- George Santayana.  This quote confronts all visitors at 
the entrance to Block 4 in Auschwitz.

Today we spent the day in what was Konzentration Lager  (KL) Auschwitz.  
Auschwitz was not one camp but was a complex of three primary sites:  
Auschwitz I was the administrative center and concentration camp for 
primarily Polish prisoners, Auschwitz-Birkenau (Auschwitz II) was the death 
camp, and  Buna (Auschwitz III) was for manufacturing and testing facilities, 
which also had dozens of labor subcamps.
 

We met our guide, Wojciech, who would take us through Auschwitz 
I which now serves as the museum.   Wojciech had been our guide before 
and we had been very impressed with both his knowledge and his 
style of interacting with us, and answering questions, so we were very 
pleased.  We started under the iconic sign, present in many camps, 
which we had seen in Terezin (Theresienstadt):  Arbeit Macht Frei.   
There, Wojciech gave us the history of the camp.   Built in the town 
of Oswiecim, Auschwitz is the Germanization of the name of the town.
It was established by the Nazis in 1940 and was in use until the Allied 
liberation in 1945.  
 
As we stood outside the gate we could see many of the 28 brick buildings 
identified by Block numbers  which made up Auschwitz I.  Before 
passing through the gate, Wojciech showed us a drawing which depicted 
an orchestra playing as inmates marched out the gate.  He informed us 
that many in the orchestra also worked in the kitchen which was a long 
building located to the right of the gate.  There they were safe 
from most of the difficult jobs -  they often had access to or were able 
to “organize” [euphemism for ‘steal’] some extra food, and were also 
protected from the weather extremes, and so their chances of survival were 
better than those who had to labor outside.  The living conditions in the 
concentration camp were severe--- hard work, starvation, disease and brutal 
treatment --- so that the average time between one’s arrival in 
Auschwitz  I and his death due to one of these factors, was about 2 months. 
 
In  1941, Himmler ordered the enlargement of the camp and 
Auschwitz-Birkenau was established .  In 1942 after the Wannsee 
Conference this camp starts to function as a death camp.  90% of the 
victims in the camp are no longer prisoners, but are taken directly 
from the trains to the gas chambers.  In 1942, there are estimated to 
have been 11 million Jews in Europe, primarily Central Europe:  
5 million in the Soviet Union, 3.5 million in Poland and  850,000 in 
Hungary.   There were 6 death camps, all located in Poland:  
Auschwitz was the largest and the only one still functioning towards 
the end of the war.  The others are Belzec, Treblinka, Chelmno, Sobibor, 
and Maidanek.  An estimated 1.3 million people were murdered in 
Auschwitz, a compromise between the low estimate of 1.1 million and the 
high of 1.5 million.  An urn with a small amount of human ash in 
Block 4 symbolizes the loss of all these lives. 

As we climbed the stairs to the second floor of Block 4, we were 
shown a large model of a gas chamber which we would see this 
afternoon in Birkenau and which showed  the three phases of its 
operation.  First, there was the disrobing room where people were 
told to remove their clothes.  They were often told to remember 
the number on which they put their clothes, or make sure to tie 
their shoes together, some were even given a piece of soap – all in 
the name of deception.  A gas chamber could hold 1,500 people at 
time.The second phase was to have two Zyklon B pellets dropped 
through the vents in the roof.  The  Zyklon B pellets alone were 
harmless, and had been used in delousing, but when dropped into 
water created a deadly hydrogen cyanide.  In 20 minutes, all the 
people would be dead and the room would be ventilated which 
required half an hour.  The third phase required Jewish prisoners 
in a special unit called the Sonderkommando to remove the bodies, 
shave the hair and remove any gold teeth from the corpses, and 
then burn the bodies in the underground crematorium.  The average 
length of time one served in the Sonderkommando before being killed 
himself, was 3-4 months.  About 80 Sonderkommando survived the 
war and were able to provide testimony. 

 

In Block 5 were belongings brought by victims to Auschwitz which were confiscated by the SS and found after liberation.  Separate rooms containing shoes, artificial limbs and crutches, eyeglasses, prayer shawls, shaving kits, household cooking items like can openers and cheese graters, baby clothes, and carefully labeled suitcases which carried these things provide physical evidence of the existence of so many victims as well as giving us some insight into what they might have thought was their destination.    A large room with a wall-to-wall display case of two thousand pounds of human hair was particularly moving for our group.  This hair was sold to German textile manufacturers for production of army uniforms or gloves and socks for railroad workers.  
 
Leaving Block 5, Wojciech took us next to Block 7 which showed us the living quarters of the prisoners in Auschwitz.  Walking through the hall of the building which had photographs of the predominantly Polish prisoners, women on the left and men on the right, with their name, prisoner number, nationality, date deported to Auschwitz and date of death.  We were told that the average life expectancy of a prisoner in Auschwitz I was 2-3 months because of the harsh conditions and the pictures bore this out.  These photographs were taken as a part of the processing into the camp, most by Wilhelm Brasse, himself a prisoner.  He spoke fluent German and was a photographer before the war.  This made him useful to the Nazis who wanted good photographs of the prisoners as well as  someone to take pictures at their private SS parties and of the experimental surgeries.  In this manner he was able to survive the war.  Wojciech told us that it was traditional for a moment of silence to be observed at Jewish burial in memory of the departed.  If that we're to be done for each person whose photograph hung in the corridors of Block 7, it  would require 8 hours.  If this same moment of silence was to be observed for each of the 1.1 million victims of Auschwitz, it would take two and a half years.  


We next visited Block 11 which served as the prison for the camp.  One of the things that concerned the Nazis was the threat of escape.   This was not a major problem as of the 400,000 prisoners, less than 700 tried to escape and less than 200 succeeded.  The Nazis used the principle of collective responsibility to discourage escapes.  If you escaped, twenty prisoners might be executed or your family might be arrested and taken to Auschwitz.  We were shown the three types of punishment cells:  dark cell, starvation cell and the standing cell in which three or four people could be forced to stand for days at a time.  Punishment might be 3-4 days in one of these cells for smoking a cigarette or 10 or more days for sabotage.   Time in a punishment cell could be a death sentence.  After viewing the execution wall between Blocks 10 and 11, where tens of thousands of prisoners were lined up naked and shot, we walked to the crematorium of the camp which was used to cremate the bodies of people who perished in the camp and also viewed the home of the camp commandant Rudolph Hoss and the gallows where he was hanged for his war crimes.  

After a brief bag lunch, we drove to Auschwitz-Birkenau where Shalmi spent the afternoon showing us the death camp. He talked about how the camp had changed in the spring of 1944 when the Nazis expected 1 million Hungarian Jews to be transported here.  It was then that they added the rail line coming into the camp preparing for the influx.  



Shalmi took us through the quarantine barracks where Jews, toward the end of the war, were taken into Germany for forced labor.  Germany desperately needed labor and the Nazi leadership was able to convince Hitler to postpone killing some Jews who could supply that labor.  They were first brought here and kept in quarantine in miserable conditions of overcrowding and little food, but after three days if there was no sign of disease they were put on another train to Germany.  In the barracks had recently been placed a stone with writing in Hebrew.  Shalmi read it:  "It's not one but many who tried to kill us; but God saved us."
 

We also saw the Czech family camp which Shalmi had spoken to us about in Terezin.  The Czech Jews had been transported to Auschwitz to reduce the overcrowding prior to the Red Cross visit as part of the beautification project.  Once the visit had occurred, however, the Czech camp was liquidated and all of its inmates sent to the gas chambers.  Again, Shalmi reminded us that the last thing the Czech Jews did before entering the gas chamber, was to sing the Czech national anthem.

We also learned of the existence of two other camps:  the Mengele Twin Camp and the Gypsy camp.  








Next Shalmi spoke of the importance of 'The Ramp' where the selection process was made determining whether one was to live or die.   He told us several emotional, heart-wrenching stories survivors have shared about their experiences on the ramp.  We saw the remains of the crematoria, the 'sauna' which served as the building where those who had been chosen to live were processed (uniforms, tattooed, shaved) and the remains of the warehouses called Canada which were massive storage buildings which housed confiscated Jewish property.  


We sat for a short while under some trees to reflect upon what we had seen 
and heard today and then walked back along the path, passing through the 
iconic gate of Auschwitz to head to our final stop on our tour, Krakow.    








Student Reflections:

Shannnon says...
Standing where the SS officers stood, where they selected millions of victims was quite overwhelming. I could not understand how anyone could determine the fate of others.  Hearing stories of how mothers were so conflicted on whether or not to walk straight to the gas chambers with their small child or to walk to the left to the woman's barracks without their child was extremely heartbreaking.

Allie says...
What struck me at Auschwitz was that the physical place was inconspicuous and even pretty; there was nothing inherently evil or horrific about it.  For someone who did not know what it was there is little to suggest the atrocities that took place there. The dehumanization, degradation, torture and mass murder came from the people and the capabilities of man to create this evil is what we must remember.

John says...
I began to feel sick after the testimony that Mr. Barmore shared with us about the boy who was separated from his father during the selection process.  I felt as though I can see the father being ushered into the work camp as the boy and his grandmother are walked toward the gas chamber.  This process and natural human experience of regret and fear demonstrate the evil nature of the death factory.

Emma says...
Viewing the places where people were dehumanized, tortured and killed was the most horrifying aspect of our visit to Auschwitz.  The stories we heard about both the victims and perpetrators were difficult to digest while standing in the places where they occurred.

Sam says...
I did not realize how large Auschwitz was.  Walking around the grounds brought about much sadness in me.  All the lives lost; so many lives lost; the innocence lost; how could one place be so destructive?


Alicia says...
What had an impact on me at Auschwitz was seeing its effect on others in our group. It absolutely boggles my mind that I know people who have lost relatives in the Holocaust because my life, my history- the history of people I know- always seem from separate from textbooks.  


Alyssia says...
When touring Auschwitz today I became very emotional.  When I witnessed the walls displaying pictures of Jewish families I truly realized that the people in the camps were no different than my family.  We both celebrate birthdays, weddings and other special occasions.  We both have loved ones and we boy cherish our lives.  It is unbelievable to me that anyone could take those precious moments away from such innocent people.

Juliana says...
Auschwitz itself was a lot to grasp. When walking through it what really shook me up was when Mr. Barmore shared stories about people knew who had been in Auschwitz.  The story that hit me the most was when the boy told his mom he wished she would die and then she was separated from him in the line to the gas chambers.

Kelly M. says...
Today in Auschwitz I felt my emotions come through stronger than ever. When I saw the pictures of the victims on the wall, I saw two pictures of men with the same last name, presumably brothers. I noticed that they died 7 months apart, and I could not imagine being without my sister for 7 months in a place such as Auschwitz.


Bedros says...
I have never felt worse in my life, then how I felt at Auschwitz-Birkenau.  Upon seeing the photos and quotes on how the first to die were children, I could not do anything but cry.  Never have I been to a location were the presence of evil emanated so literally.

Kiley says...
Standing on the ramp at Birkenau and listening to Shalmi tell stories of victims of the Holocaust, left a feeling of sadness.  To hear personal stories of families being separated in this exact spot was heart wrenching.


Helen says...
Nazi ideology, bystanders, perpetrators, victims, Final Solution, were all pieces of the Holocaust.  This can be written down on paper, looked at and studied.  But in Auschwitz-Birkenau, it made no sense, none of it made any sense.

Miya says...
In Mrs. Sussman's Holocaust class we read "This Way for the Gas, Ladies and Gentlemen," by Tadeusc Barowski which described life for prisoners who were members of Canada.  Today we saw pictures of men who had to take peoples last possessions before being sent to their deaths. Seeing real but stoic images of people who seemed to have the best job in the camp gave a more positive impression than Barowski's description of the type of person he became to gladly send thousands of people to their deaths for a chance to steal their food.

Max says...
It's difficult to fathom what people will do for their personal benefit.  Europeans first accepted Jews only to improve commerce and trade.  In the Holocaust, everything the Jews had left including their hair, prosthetic limbs and luggage was taken and sold to benefit the Germans.  Jews were only seen as objects to manipulate for personal gain.

Sarah says...
There are no words to describe the things we experienced today. We were able to see where millions of people experienced the cruelest treatment by human beings breathing the air, walking on the pavement and seeing the scenery left me unsettled.

Chris says...
Today we went to Auschwitz and it was very emotional.  Seeing the hair of the deceased was very upsetting to see and I was in shocked that the Nazis utilized the hair to make blankets and uniforms.  This really demonstrated to me the process of dehumanization that the victims went through.

Amanda says...
Today I found it very hard to fathom the horrific, inhuman, and unjustifiable crimes that took place in Auschwitz-Birkenau.  Walking down the same path that millions of others had been directed down, carrying both their belongings and emotions, I could not help but realize how different it was now from then.  A a result, it was hard to imagine what actually transpired where I stood.  I struggled with these feelings throughout the day and found my breaking point to be in the room full of women's hair and I felt with the question of why life was so cruel to these innocent people?

Kendall says...
The biggest surprise for me today was the fact that I did not know what to expect.  I felt that there was this immeasurable amount of emotion that continued to follow me because the sites that we aw today were nothing like I ever pictured before.  The Holocaust came together for me today, but yet left me struggling for answers.

Andrew says...
As we walked around Auschwitz and Birkenau I felt my legs grow heavy and my stomach drop.  From the room filled with hair to Mr. Barmore telling us heart-wrenching stories of families being separated on the ramp, I felt everyone was holding back tears.  It is hard to believe that people were forced to live in such conditions.

Gauge says...
Today was both physically and emotionally moving; just being where over a million people were sentenced to death.  Seeing the whole camp made me depressed, not for the fact that I was there, but for those who were there before.  I was emotionally drained seeing the tracks, gas chambers, and crematoria.

Ashley says...
Actually being at Auschwitz-Birkenau was overwhelming.  Standing where the mass murder of innocent lives occurred revealed a harsh reality.  I felt pain and sorrow for the Holocaust victims.

Kelly B. says...
Walking through Auschwtiz-Birkenau today, it was heartbreaking to think about all the lives that were lost there.  What really struck me was that most of the people murdered there were convinced that they would be leaving and returning to their lives with their families.  The false hope that they were given was cruel and left a lasting impression on me.

Meredith says...
Today when we were standing at the selection site at Birkenau, Shalmi told us three stories about peoples personal experiences at the selection site. For me, I started thinking about my family and how I connected to that site.  I knew that I was standing in that exact place millions had their fate decided for them.



Day 11 - Krakow

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Our day began in the Jewish Quarter, Kazmierz. Shalmi gave us the history of why large numbers of Jews came to Poland in the 16th century when they were invited by the aristocracy. Jews came here and formed communities called shtetls in the rural, mostly unpopulated areas. Jews provided capital for the seeds that needed to be planted, and also had a monopoly on the sale of vodka. According to Shalmi, Poles really like alcohol, so this became very lucrative. Jews became the tools of the nobility, who didn't like them, but needed them. However, this put the Jews in a precarious position with the local serfs, who were Catholic.
 
The Jews were central in the advancement of this area; they were necessary, not liked, but tolerated. As the middle ages progressed, Jews came to this area in huge numbers. For Jews, Poland was a land of opportunity. Unlike the Jews in Germany and Prague, the Jews here did not assimilate; they acculturated. In Germany the Jews wanted to be German, but , but in Poland it was different.  By the 20th century, most Jews here spoke Polish.  They took on and enjoyed the culture but did not seek to take on the identity as Poles.  This had much to do with the Polish-Jewish relations at the time.  By 1919, this caused problems with Poles who wanted to be identified by their nationality, and did not see Jews as a part of their nation, but instead saw them as outsiders. By 1939 in Poland, because of many factors, including a bad economy, the Poles have a very grave relationship with all minorities here, including the Jews, who represent 10% of the population. Because so many Jews lived in the heart of big cities, the population of Jews in these city centers, their presence is felt more by the non-Jewish residents. Some helped Jews, some killed Jews, but most were bystanders who saw the Nazi actions during the Holocaust as solving a Polish problem.  The Poles would never have done what the Nazis did, because they are deeply Christian, and as we had heard before, it is an integral part of Catholic teachings (The Witness Theory) that says the Jew, persecuted but alive, is a necessary element for Jesus Christ to come again. 
 
Shalmi also told us that while the Nazis themselves were Christian albeit not church-going, the Nazi ideology was against Christianity because it came out of Judaism, and anything that developed from Judaism was destructive. 
 
Inside the Stara Synagogue in the Jewish Quarter, also known as the Old Synagogue because it was built in 1407, Shalmi taught us about the history of Hasidism, a part of Judaism that reflects emotional piety of the people who practice it. Jews here were visible, because of their Hasidism, and kept their religious practices, which also set them apart. They closed their businesses on Saturdays because of the Sabbath, and opened them on Sundays. They wore clothing and earlocks which set them apart in appearance. Their identity was very deeply connected to their religious practices and beliefs.  Like Christianity, but unlike Judaism, Hasidism relied upon the personal relationship to God.  If you felt love for God, he will understand.  In Judaism, they were supposed to fear God, not love Him.  We also heard about some of the practices of Hasidism, such as the method of teaching a young boy to read beginning at the age of three, by putting honey on a letter of  the alphabet and then saying the sound so that the child connects learning and education to something positive and sweet.   We also learned that in Hasidism, women’s hair and voice are considered seductive, so women cut their hair and in public wear wigs, and women singing in public is not allowed,  neither alone nor in a choir.
 
From here we crossed the square to visit the Remu Synagogue, also known as the New Synagogue because it was built in 1650, which is currently under extensive renovation, although some of the paintings are now completed, such as paintings which depict more modern knowledge, such as the drawing of Rachel’s Tom and the Western Wall.  Outside of this synagogue, we walked through the Jewish cemetery, where Jews were given land to bury their dead.  We had seen one other cemetery located next to the synagogue in Prague (the Pinkhas Synagogue) and Shalmi reminded us that this was unusual.  Jews would never place a cemetery close to the synagogue unless there was no alternative.  However, since Christians told the Jews where they could live and where they could have land, this was the property allotted to them to bury their dead.
 
We next visited the Tempel Synagogue, a reform Jewish synagogue  which was built in the 1860’s when Krakow was part of the Austro-Hungarian empire.  The synagogue has Moorish designs on the ceiling and is quite ornate, reminiscent of the Spanish Synagogue in Prague.  It was dedicated to the Emperor Franz Joseph whom the Jews loved as he did them because in an empire with numerous ethnic conflicts, the Jews did not present any problems to his authority.  The Hasidic Jews, however, did not like this synagogue which incorporated elements of Christian churches such as the pews aligned and facing front, the mixed seating, and the fact that the day of prayer was changed to Saturday.  The Hasidic Jews said of the building,  that it was not a synagogue but a temple, for Gentiles.  The word ‘temple’ therefore, used to describe a synagogue, was originally a pejorative word referring to non-traditional Jewish synagogues. 

Our bus drove us across the Vistula river to the Jewish Ghetto of Krakow, where the Nazis forced the Jews to move. The Krakow Ghetto was a sleeping ghetto, where the Jews slept at night, and worked outside of during the day. The Jews ran this ghetto, and built the walls surrounding it in such a decorative way, showing their resilience and belief that this ghetto would be a new protected area, where they would be able to ride out the war.
 
In front of the museum that once was the pharmacy of Tadeusz Pankiewicz,  Apteka Pod Orlem (Pharmacy Under the Eagle), we looked out over the open memorial, with chairs, that represent the furniture that the Jews carried over the bridge into these cramped quarters, where 17,000 people crowded into 320 houses. Shalmi told us the inspirational story of Polish pharmacist Tadeusz Pankiewicz whose diary documents ghetto life.
 

Inside the museum which has been totally transformed since our last visit, there is an exhibition about the Krakow ghetto and the role of Tadeusz Pankiewicz.  Visitors can open drawers, look into cabinets, browse through binders with quotes from his diary, smell substances in the numerous jars of chemicals, and search for information in a multimedia center. 






Here Shalmi explains that Plaszow Camp, located only 5 miles from here, was built by the people from the Krakow Ghetto who believed they would survive the war because they are building a labor camp. They even built a barrack for children there, so they believed that their families would remain intact. However, on March 13, 1943, all Jews from the ghetto were supposed to report to the square at 7:00 a.m. Once there, all children under age 14 were told to line up separately. Their parents were told that they would come to Plaszow the next day. Pankiewicz reports that some saw this as a bad sign and rushed to the pharmacy to purchase one of two drugs.  One of the drugs was Valerium--a drug that put their babies to sleep, so that parents could smuggle their babies into the Plaszow camp inside of suitcases.  Shalmi told us that 12 children are known to have been smuggled into Plaszow in this manner.  The second drug requested by many Jews was Cyanide, for suicide.  At 1:00 p.m., the Nazis ordered those not in the children's line to start marching from the ghetto to Plaszow. They left behind what they were unable to carry. The following day, their children were taken away and shot. Two days later, some parents found out when they were forced to sort the children's clothing, and found the clothing of their own children.
 



After lunch at McDonald’s, we went to see the memorial to Sarah Schenirer on the site of the former Plaszow labor camp.  Sarah Schenirer was a pioneer of Jewish education for girls.  In 1917, she established the Beis Yaakov ("house of Jacob") school network in Poland.  In 2009 when we had visited Plaszow, the condition of the memorial site was overgrown with weeds, there was trash strewn everywhere and evidence that regular drinking and drug activity was taking place near the site.  The students that year, upset by the condition of the area, chose to forego their tour of Krakow the next day and chose instead, to work for several hours to clean up the area.  We filled over 15 large garbage bags of trash and cleaned the memorial.  Our guide Eva helped us with our cleanup and also wrote letters to the city council about this as did we.  We were, incredibly surprised and pleased, therefore, when we came to the memorial today and found that there has been built a sheltering canopy over the memorial and a pathway to it.  There has been considerable cleanup of the area and brush and weeds cut back.
 
We next visited briefly the villa of the Plaszow commandant, Amon Goeth, which is still for sale and is in a major state of disrepair, quite visible from the outside. 

On our way back to the hotel we drove past the museum at Oscar Schindler's factory, a recently opened part of the Jewish Museum of Krakow, so that we could see the gate to the factory, which is still the original.   We also passed a part of the original ghetto wall, which was built by Jews, and shows an ornate style and was obviously built with pride. 


Day 12 - Krakow

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We had said goodbye to Shalmi last night after dinner and presented him with our individual thank you letters and took our final group picture.
 
Today we spent the day with our guide, Ewa, walking and learning the history of Krakow and the Wawel Castle district.  The weather this morning, was one of the warmest days we have experienced on the trip, about 42 degrees as we walked up the hill to Wawel.
 
Our first stop is the palace, where our guide shows us beautiful tapestries that were created in Belgium.  She points out that the elaborate tapestries took one year to weave each square meter. The tapestries fill the walls of the ornate palace of the Polish nobility.  During World War II, when the Nazis used this as their headquarters in Poland, the palace was the home of Hans Frank, the Governor-General of occupied Poland.  On the way up the hill, Ewa told us the story of the Wawel Dragon and showed us the fire-breathing dragon statue protecting the castle.
 
Ewa took us through Wawel Cathedral which is more formally known at the Roayl Archcathedral Basilica of Saints Stanislaus and Wenceslaus.   Stanislaus is Poland’s patron saint.  Built in the mid-14th century,  it is the Polish national cathedral and has been the traditional coronation site of Polish kings.   Karol Wojtyla, said his first Mass in the crypt of Wawel Cathedral on November 3, 1946.  In 1963, he took over the cathedral as Archbishop of Krakow, later becoming Pope John Paul II.  A statue of Pope John II stands outside Wawel Cathedral.   Before entering the cathedral, Ewa pointed out an odd assortment of massive bones which are chained to the wall above the door.  While some claim these to be the bones of  Smok Wawelski (the Wawel Dragon)  they are believed to be a bluewhale, woolly mammoth,  and rhinoceros, or all three. Ewa told us it is believed they have magical properties, and are credited with protecting the city from destruction during centuries of Polish partition and during WWII when Krakow was not damaged, while almost every other major city in Poland was decimated.  She said that it is believed that when the bones fall, it will be the end of the world.
 
We enter the basement of Wawel Cathedral, and silently walk through the burial place of Polish kings and rulers. We visit downstairs, underneath the cathedral, and view the sarcophagus of  President Lech Kaczynski and his wife, Maria,  who were killed in the plane crash in Russia in 2010 on their way to the first Polish-Russian commemoration to the atrocities of Katyn that took place during World War II.
 
From here, we go back to the square, and enjoy an afternoon that includes lunch and shopping for souvenirs from beautiful, hospitable Krakow.  The afternoon began with blue skies and sun, but then we had to brave a brief thunderstorm, seeking respite from the wind and rain in the market hall, before heading back to the hotel to prepare for our final dinner this evening.  


Student Final Reflections

Amanda says...
I could never have imagined how this trip could have turned out; the things I have learned, the memories I have created and the friendships I have made are irreplaceable.  I am unbelievably grateful to have been a part of such a once-in-a-lifetime experience.  The things we have learned are not easy, but this has been the best environment to learn them and being in places they have happened made it that much more real.  Even though the questions are endless and the answers limited, I could not be more appreciative of the opportunity I have been given.

Kelly M. says...
Looking back on these two weeks, I realize what a valuable gift I have been given.  Being able to come to these places and see how Jewish people of Europe were affected by the Holocaust is something that will stick with me for the rest of my life.  This trip reinforced my believe that everyone should be treated equally.

Sarah says...
The Holocaust Study Tour has exceeded all of my expectations.  I will never be able to shake the questions that have arisen throughout this trip.  

Bedros says...
It is kind of surreal that I am writing my final reflection.  It is hard right now to express in words the impact this experience has had on me.  If anything, I know that Pavel's story and Shalmi's lectures will forever be engraved in my mind.

Kendall says...
Overall, I feel that there will never be enough words to describe the journey we all just experienced.
I look forward to keeping the memories and stories alive.

Meredith says...
I came on this trip knowing there would be two aspects; the emotional and the factual.  We looked at all of these sites to find answers, but more questions continue to cause me to want to learn more about the Holocaust.

Allie says...
Early in the trip, Mr. Barmore said something along the lines of. "There is not one Holocaust, but 6 million Holocaust stories." I think this trip gave me the opportunity not only to study the Holocaust, but to remember the individuality of the victims.

Shannon says...
Seeing what the Holocaust did to numerous families across Europe must never be forgotten. As a result of this trip, I know I will honor the memory of the victims and continue to tell their stories.

Miya says...
The knowledge that we have gained in the places we have visited added a very surreal element to the trip.  A classroom would not have shown how people, towns and countries were affected.  

John says...
The poignant moment in the program for me was Lidice.  It touched me so much that I could only imagine what would that event look like today in America.  I hope that the public outcry would be much different.

Helen says...
This trip has given me the tools to reflect and discuss the meaning of the Holocaust.  I am grateful that my thinking has been challenged.


Emma says...
This trip has helped me grapple with numerous questions about the Holocaust.  Even though these questions may not be fully answered, searching for answers can help to combat injustice in the world in a effort to prevent future genocides.

Alyssia says...
I have gotten the chance to not only learn about the tragic events of the Holocaust, but I have gotten the chance to compare those events with the troubles of society today.  I have realized that even after all of these years prejudice, hate and intolerance still continue today.  I am now motivated to be a better person and to share this motivation with the world.

Ashley says...
The greatest impact on my life was actually seeing the support of the community of Trsice for the Jewish community. To me this reflected the town's selfishness for the Wolf family.  I leave this trip with a greater knowledge of the Holocaust and the universal suffering and sacrifice that occurred during this time period.

Alicia says...
I will take away from this trip a value for opinion and the strength to vocalize ideas in the face of vast opposition.

Chris says...
At Lidice we saw the statues of children that were slaughtered by the Nazis.  This particular memorial showed the true cruelty of the Nazis and I could not put myself in their shoes because something like this seems unfathomable. 


Kelly B. says...
No one person is responsible for the tragic losses of the Holocaust and we will never fully understand why this happened, but we must educate ourselves and others about this tragic event in order to prevent future genocides.

Max says...
It is disgraceful how the Nazis outcasted the Jews in society, yet the Nazis were people.  Maybe people should reflect, struggle and evaluate humanity within themselves to protect against the possibilities of evil that must be in all of us.

Juliana says...
During this trip I felt anger which I did not expect.  I felt anger when Mr. Barmore told us the story of  a woman forced to leave her son during selection so that he could survive.  I felt anger when I realized that so many people had a hand in the extermination process. As I go back home, I know that this experience has empowered me to reflect upon what I have learned and apply this knowledge to my world.

Guage says...
I have been enlightened by the horrors of the Holocaust. It has taught me about the impossibility of choices when one's "back" is against the wall.  Those who were persecuted were unable to control their fate. This concept has humbled me to see life and one's choices differently.

Andrew says...
Pavel's story of bravery and love really had an impact on me.  When we arrived at Auschwitz Pavel's story was really put in perspective for me.  From the barracks, to the gas chambers I realized how difficult life was for the prisoners and I thought of Pavel and how it was possible that he survived.  I still don't know how he survived such horror, but I did learn from Pavel that being courageous is essential.  

Kiley says...
The experience of witnessing firsthand the dedication of the Trsice memorial which was influenced by the legacy of the HST students, has showed me the importance of spreading awareness of the Holocaust. In this I can help in preserving the memory of the Holocaust and its historical value for future generations.

Sam says...
Seeing Auschwitz made me realize how there were children who had no idea where they were walking, but walking to their deaths. I was troubled thinking about the innocent kids that were killed. The loss of innocent life 70 years removed disturbed me and will always stay with me.







Day 11: Krakow

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Our day began in the Jewish Quarter, Kazimierz, at the Galicia Museum.  Our guide showed us the history of this area through the photography exhibit, "Traces of Memory." The exhibit shows the Jewish history in this area that was, in Shalmi's words the "heart of Jewish life." The Nazis believed that by destroying the heart of Jewish life, they would cut out this vital organ of the collective body and therefore destroy all Jewish life.

Shalmi gave us the history of why large numbers of Jews came to Poland in the 16th century when they were invited by the aristocracy. Jews came here and formed communities called shtetls in the rural, mostly unpopulated areas. Jews provided capital for the seeds that needed to be planted, and also had a monopoly on the sale of vodka. According to Shalmi, Poles really like alcohol, so this became very lucrative. Jews became the tools of the nobility, who didn't like them, but needed them. However, this put the Jews in a precarious position with the local serfs, who were Catholic.

The Jews were central in the advancement of this area; they were necessary, not liked, but tolerated. As the middle ages progressed, Jews came to this area in huge numbers. For Jews, Poland was a land of opportunity.





Inside the Stara Synagogue in the Jewish Quarter, also known as the Old Synagogue because it was built in 1407, Shalmi taught us about the history of Hasidism, a part of Judaism that reflects emotional piety of the people who practice it. Jews here were visible, because of their Hasidism, and kept their religious practices, which also set them apart. They closed their businesses on Saturdays because of the Sabbath, and opened them on Sundays. They wore clothing and earlocks which set them apart in appearance. Their identity was very deeply connected to their religious practices and beliefs.  Hasidism relied upon an emotional relationship with God, and their love of God made their faith steadfast despite everything.  

From here we crossed the square to visit the Remu Synagogue, also known as the New Synagogue because it was built in 1650, which is currently under extensive renovation.Outside of this synagogue, we walked beside the Jewish cemetery, where Jews were given land to bury their dead.  Unfortunately both were closed today in observance of Passover, so we were unable to go inside.

We next visited the Temple Synagogue, a reform Jewish synagogue  which was built in the 1860’s when Krakow was part of the Austro-Hungarian empire.  The synagogue has Moorish designs on the ceiling and is quite ornate, reminiscent of the Spanish Synagogue in Prague.  It was dedicated to the Emperor Franz Joseph whom the Jews loved as he did them because in an empire with numerous ethnic conflicts, the Jews did not present any problems to his authority.  The Hasidic Jews said of the building, that it was not a synagogue but a temple.







After lunch at a nearby restaurant Kazimierz, our bus drove us across the Vistula river to the Jewish Ghetto of Krakow, where the Nazis forced the Jews to move. The Krakow Ghetto was a sleeping ghetto, where the Jews slept at night, and worked outside the ghetto walls during the day. The Jews ran this ghetto, and built the walls surrounding it in such a decorative way, showing their resilience and belief that this ghetto would be a new protected area, where they would be able to ride out the war. 
In front of the museum that once was the pharmacy of Tadeusz Pankiewicz, Apteka Pod Orlem (Pharmacy Under the Eagle), we looked out over the open memorial, with chairs, that represent the furniture that the Jews carried over the bridge into these cramped quarters, where 17,000 people crowded into 320 houses. Shalmi told us the inspirational story of Polish pharmacist Tadeusz Pankiewicz whose diary documents ghetto life.

Inside the museum, there is an exhibition about the Krakow ghetto and the role of Tadeusz Pankiewicz.  Visitors can open drawers, look into cabinets, browse through binders with quotes from his diary, smell substances in the numerous jars of chemicals, and search for information in a multimedia center.






Here Shalmi explains that Plaszow Camp, located only 5 miles from here, was built by the people from the Krakow Ghetto who believed they would survive the war because they are building a labor camp. They even built a barrack for children there, so they believed that their families would remain intact.






However, on March 13, 1943, all Jews from the ghetto were supposed to report to the square at 7:00 a.m. Once there, all children under age 14 were told to line up separately. Their parents were told that they would come to Plaszow the next day. Pankiewicz reports that some saw this as a bad sign and rushed to the pharmacy to purchase one of two drugs.  One of the drugs was Valerium--a drug that put their babies to sleep, so that parents could smuggle their babies into the Plaszow camp inside of suitcases.  Shalmi told us that 12 children are known to have been smuggled into Plaszow in this manner.  The second drug requested by many Jews was Cyanide, for suicide.



At 1:00 p.m., the Nazis ordered those not in the children's line to start marching from the ghetto to Plaszow. They left behind what they were unable to carry. The following day, their children were taken away and shot. Two days later, some parents found out when they were forced to sort the children's clothing, and found they were sorting the clothing of their own children.

After dinner we prepare for our day tomorrow, where will we explore other parts of Galicia, the region surrounding Krakow.  Tomorrow we will visit Wadowice and Tarnov, and the following day Zakopane and Rabka.










Day 12: Wadowice - Tarnow - Dabrowa Tarnowska

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Today we experienced three new cities in our quest to discover and learn more about the extensive history of Jewish life in Poland before World War II.  Our first stop was Wadowice, best known as the birthplace of Pope John Paul II, who will be canonized as a saint April 27, 2014.  Born in 1920 in a house owned by Jews where his parents rented three rooms, Karol Józef Wojtyła grew up in a thriving Jewish community where he went to school, acted in a drama company and even dated a Jewish girl. At the newly opened museum of his life here in Wadowice, we learned about Jewish history in the first room of the exhibition. Our guide Paulina told us that John Paul II used the phrase "older brothers" to describe the relationship between Jews and Catholics.While in Wadowice, we enjoyed a coffee break eating the Pope's favorite cream cake, similar to a Napoleon, but lighter and creamier.

 


Next we journeyed to the city of Tarnow, two hours east of Krakow, where we stood in the cold drizzle underneath the only remnants of the Skwer Starej Synagogue: the beautiful, tall bima.  The Nazis destroyed the synagogue in 1939, but many of the buildings that were part of the Tarnow Ghetto remain. The Nazis massacred massive numbers of Jews in 1942 and 1943, including 8,000 Jewish orphans buried in mass grave just outside the city. On our way out of the city, we drove by the expansive Jewish Cemetery, one of the oldest and largest remaining in Poland after World War II.

At the last stop of our day, Dabrowa Tarnowska, which means "the oak forests near Tarnow" in English, we met three amazing Polish high school teachers who have worked tirelessly to educate students here about the Holocaust and the history of Jews in the area. We met them at a beautifully restored synagogue in the center of the city that opened in June of 2012 as a center for the study of the culture of Jews and Poles in the area.




Shalmi told us that when he first started bringing groups to Poland for tours in 1986, this synagogue was in ruins and they had to literally crawl under fence openings to get inside.  Now the synagogue glows with ornate paintings, marble painted pillars and clear lead glass windows.







For these Polish teachers, who were brought up in communist Poland, the synagogue represents freedom and democracy.  For Shalmi, the synagogue represents hope and the fact that despite all of the ugly history of this place, change is possible. We said goodbye to the teachers, promising to return next year with a new group of students, and to communicate to plan a gathering of their Polish students and our American students here at the synagogue in 2015.














Day 13: Rabka Zdroj - Zakopane

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Today we continued our quest to find out more about Jewish life in the area, as well as learning about the culture of the Polish Highlanders, the mountain people of the Tatra Mountains in Zakopane.









Our first stop on our journey south of Krakow was the small town of Rabka Zdroj, a spa resort town that has been a source of fresh air for people suffering from lung ailments for more than a century.  Before the war, there was a Jewish community living here in part of the city; however, during the war the Gestapo took over part of a convent and used it as a school for interrogation training.  Their practice came from torturing Jews to death, then throwing the bodies out behind the convent building. Some of the nuns here, at great personal risk, drug the bodies uphill to a remote wooded area where they buried the bodies as best as possible given the circumstances.





We walked through the damp, cold grass beside the convent, uphill through the woods on a barely distinguishable path.  Now a memorial and fence surrounds the area of burial, and a memorial marker reads: "In honor of the martyrs who dies at the hand of Hitlerites 1941-1942."




Shalmi told us that this place represents both the depths to which society can sink, evidenced by the Gestapo using Jews for torturous interrogation practice; and the heights to which society can rise, evidenced by the nuns risking their lives to properly bury the Jewish bodies.
We continue by bus up into the Tatra mountains to Zakopane, where we enjoy a delicious Polish meal and buying souvenirs from the local vendors.

On our way back to Zakopane, Shalmi told us the story of his childhood in Poland, where his father served as the Israeli ambassador to Poland.  Born in Tel Aviv in 1945, Shalmi and his family moved to Warsaw in 1954, where he lived "a privileged life" compared to most Poles.  He attended a school for diplomats with American students and here learned the English language.  The Poles struggled to make a life in Warsaw a city in ruins hidden by elaborate facades depicting painted buildings, some even with window boxes of flowers painted on them. Here is where Shalmi learned about being Jewish, something he wasn't even cognizant of as a child in Israel.

When he was 13, he was the first person to have his Bar Mitzvah in the only remaining synagogue in Warsaw.  He assumed that no one would come because there were very few Jews here.  However, he and his family were surprised when they arrived to a synagogue packed with Jews from all over Poland who came to see the Israeli boy read from the Torah.  After reciting from the Torah, his father pushed him into the crowd, where Shalmi said people touched him and kissed their fingers, as if he were a holy object like the Torah carried throughout the synagogue for Simchat Torah. For these people who had survived the Holocaust, Shalmi represented hope and new life for the Jewish people of Poland.

Although he is not certain if this is why he became a Holocaust scholar, spending his formative years in Warsaw changed him.  We are thankful that he has been with us throughout our Holocaust Study Tour 2014.  We all hugged him when he left us this evening at our hotel, thanking him for teaching us so well.

Student Reflections

Nick says:
Today we learned of the story of bravery by the nuns of Rabjka Convent where they strived to give a proper burial to the Jewish people that were tortured ad used as guinea pigs by the Nazis.  We climbed the mountain to visit the cemetery and to see for ourselves the dangers the nuns went through to insure last rights to the murdered people.

Mackenzie says:
Today we visited a cemetery that had an incredible background.  At a monastery in Rabjka on our way to Zakopane we visited a burial site in which the nuns gave Jews killed by the Nazis in the town proper Jewish burial.  It was very moving to know that the nuns made the effort to give these people a burial.   This showed the true humanity and bravery of these nuns.

Trevor says:
Over the past two days I have learned a lot about people. From the reconstruction of the synagogue to Dabrowna Tarnoska,  to the bravery of the nuns in Rabjka, I saw the height of humanity as a response to humanity’s lowest point and that people are capable of doing what is right.

Kyle says:
The past few days have days have been unlike anything I could have expected. Mr. Barmore has taught us more than I can even process in such a short period of time. Today we visited a mass grave in Rabjka in which the nuns of the convent gave the Jews killed by the Nazis a proper burial.  This showed me a glimmer of hope during a very dark period in history and that it is possible that humanity can respond properly in such circumstances.

Jane says:
Today I found it compelling that a group of Catholic nuns gave the Jews killed in their convent in Rabjka a proper Jewish burial.  Visiting this cemetery and mass grave caused me to admire these nuns greatly because they defied evil with humanity.  I learned that even during such dark times, humanity is possible.

Gayle says:
Yesterday we travelled to Tarnow and we saw the ruins of the synagogue that had been burned by the Nazis in 1939.  This stood out to me because Mr. Barmore said how they would hold concerts and events now near the bima ruins. This showed me how Poland today is capable of acknowledging and preserving Jewish heritage. 


Matt says:
Seeing the cemetery today in Rabjka in which the nuns of the convent gave the murdered Jews a proper burial made me realize how much these nuns risked to honor these victims.  Their heroism was not lost on me and I will always remember this very powerful place. 

Dana says:
Visiting the hidden Jewish cemetery today, made me realize what true respect and humanity is.  Learning about how the nuns risked their lives to gather the bodies of the dead Jews and give them a proper burial was eye-opening.  It proved to me that no matter how awful or low people can fall, there will always be others to rise to the occasion and do what is right.

Greg says:
I found the Galicia museum in Krakow very intriguing.  I really liked how it showed pictures of past and present Jewish life in Galicia.   The picture of the missing mezuzah on a door post especially impacted me.  The museum displayed Jewish places of disrespect, murder, and dilapidation; however the museum did a really great job of showing monuments to perished Jews, renovated synagogues, and memorials.

Sarah says:
In the past couple days I have witnesses the preservation of Jewish heritage in small Polish towns, whose Jewish populations were decimated during the Holocaust.  In Tarnow, which used to be 45% Jewish, they have preserved the bima of the old synagogue that the Nazis had destroyed in 1939.  It now proudly stands as a testament to the once-thriving Jewish quarter there, a reminder that the Nazis ultimately failed in their attempt to erase the influential presence of Jewish life in Europe.

Nicole says:
I thought that the cemetery that we had visited today had a very powerful story. .  The nuns of the monastery nearby had preserved and buried the bodies of the murdered Jewish people who were killed by the Nazis.  It is a powerful story that they would be so respectful of these people’s lives to properly bury them out of respect. 

Raquel says:
Today walking through the woods to visit the “hidden” Jewish cemetery in Rabka, gave me some thought as to why it was hidden in the woods.  Just knowing that not many people know or even care about this cemetery is heartbreaking because it was part of a history and a big part of the survivors of the Holocaust.  People may not care but just before you know it history can repeat itself.

Kiefer says:
Today I witnessed the place where the Christian nuns left a nameless mass grave for the tortured Jews which left me awestruck for the compassion and caring for others that the nuns had shown.  The selfless acts were an amazing thing just for the pure fact that they had done it without anyone asking them to do so and without the proper knowledge of a Jewish funeral.  They gave a proper resting place to the murdered Jews just out of the goodness of their hearts. 


Tara says:
During yesterday’s visit to the museum about Pope John Paul II, I liked how he was in theater and the arts before switching majors to theology, which eventually led him to becoming the pope.  I, too, am interested in a lot of different things, particularly the arts, and the fact that he was so successful, despite completely changing his mind due to his liking of a myriad of activities and ideas was inspiring.

Shane says:

Yesterday we visited a restored synagogue in Dabrowa Tarnowska.  This synagogue stood out to me because it shows how the some members of the Polish community  are recognizing and honoring  the history of the Jewish people in Poland.  What that means to me is that people are remembering the past and learning from it rather than forgetting it.











Day 14: Krakow

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We spent our last day in Krakow touring Wawel Hill with our guide, Paulina, and learning about the history of this beautiful city. We saw the beautiful Wawel Cathedral, where John Paul II said his first mass as a newly ordained priest, and Wawel Castle, with a beautiful courtyard that depicts medieval architecture.

We walk through the beautiful park that surrounds the Old Town of Krakow, and stop at Jagiellonian University, one of the oldest and best universities in all of Europe.  Inside the courtyard where Copernicus studied and taught, we watched the astrological clock strike eleven and the wooden professors marched out and in to beautiful music.


Winding our way down the hill and into the bright, warm and sunny market square, we entered Krakow's Market Square Underground Museum.  Inside, we saw the archeological remnants of the medieval society of Krakow that operated small booths and traded in this bustling market on the trade routes going across Europe.

From here, we go back above ground to the square, and enjoy an afternoon that includes lunch and shopping for souvenirs from beautiful, hospitable Krakow, before heading back to the hotel to blog and to prepare for our final dinner this evening.

Final Reflections:

Nicole says:
Dana says:

Jane says:


Kiefer says:

Mackenzie says:

Sarah says:

Shane says:

Matt says:

Gayle says:

Nick says:

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Kyle says:

Trevor says:

Raquel says:

Day 8 - Lostice - Olomouc

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This morning we said goodbye to Prague and headed east to our next hotel stop, Olomouc.  We had said goodbye to Kamilla last night after our dinner at Nebozizek overlooking Prague, and this morning we said hello to our new guide, Ilona, who will be accompanying us from Prague to Olomouc and Trsice, and will be leaving us when we get to Poland.  
On the way we stopped in the town of Lostice, a town of about 3,000 people,  and were met by the town historian and Director of the Respect and Tolerance program in Lostice, Ludek Stipel.   Mr. Stipel took us to the former Lostice synagogue and gave us the history of the Jews in Lostice as well as the story of how he converted the former synagogue into an educational center.
 
In 2006 the restoration of the synagogue by Mr. Stipel’s organization was begun and they completed it in 2011.  No longer a functioning synagogue, it is now a center of learning for schools, teachers, and community members, all with the goal of preserving memory.  The pews in the center are from the Olomouc synagogue, destroyed by the Nazis in 1939.  Each of the 21 seats is dedicated to victims of the Holocaust from Lostice and surrounding towns.  Each of the seats had a compartment dedicated to one of more families, and inside the compartment were everyday objects from the period and photos which were somehow linked to the people to whom that box was dedicated. 
In the box for Otto Wolf there were several items including pages from his diary, photos of his family and a spoon.  We were all fascinated by these compartments and we spent some time looking through them.  Mr. Stipel explained how these objects were used to teach both the history of the Jews in the area and the history of the Holocaust to children.






Upstairs we were shown the Otto Wolf library which had been established because of donations from Eva and Tony Vavrecka and is an integral part of the educational programs which the center sponsors for students and teachers. 

Next we were shown the documentary film which the Respect and Tolerance program produced with portions of Otto Wolf’s diary read by Czech students  and narrated by our friend Tony Vavrecka, husband of Eva Vavrecka who is the daughter of Lici Wolf [brother of Otto].  We were all extremely impressed with what Mr. Stipel had been able to establish in such a short period of time, using the most current best practices in education. 

Leaving the synagogue we drove to the nearby Jewish cemetery which had been used since the 15th century until the last burial in May 1942, one month before the deportation transports left from this area.  Shalmi asked us to notice how many of the Jewish headstones  in the 19thcentury were written in German, which we were able to connect to the point he had made many times earlier about how the Jews were trying to assimilate and absorb German language and culture.  Mr. Stipel showed us several headstones and told us stories he had learned about these individuals.   










Next we headed on to Olomouc where after checking into our hotel rooms, we were met by Petr Papousek, the head of the Jewish Federation of the Czech Republic and the leader of the Olomouc Jewish community.  Grandson of our dear friend, Milos Dobry, who passed away two years ago, he led us to the cemetery where Milos is buried so we could pay our respects.  Petr talked to us about his Milos’ life, his Holocaust experiences, and his funeral. 
The students learned that Milos had been a well-known Czech rugby player and leader of the Czechoslovak Rugby Union until 1993.  Petr told us that at Milos’ funeral many rugby players came to honor him and at the end of the ceremony they threw a  rugby ball into the grave.  Petr also told his grandfather’s Holocaust story, as well as how he had come to be so involved in the small Jewish community.  He showed us the Holocaust memorial which had been recently added to the cemetery by the Jewish Federation with the names of the victims of the Holocaust.  We also happened upon the gravesite of Otto Wolf’s parents Bertold and Ruzena which we had never before visited. 


Graves of Berthold and Ruzena Wolf - the parents of Otto Wolf



We drove to the Jewish Community Center where Petr showed our group the small synagogue in the Jewish center, the prayer blanket which was used for Torah readings which was donated after the war by Otto Wolf’s father in memory of his sons, Kurt and Otto, and spoke to us about the slow growth of the Jewish community in the area.  There are currently 157 members of the Olomouc Jewish community;  ½ are from Olomouc and ½ are from surrounding towns.  They have shabbat services, cultural events, a monthy journal, and also have a social department and a Holocaust endowment fund which allows them to take care of survivors, of which there are about 7 still alive.  Peter said the International Claims conference had allocated funds for the care of the survivors, now numbering about 700 in the Czech Republic.  Ms. Tambuscio told the students, as a comparison, that the state of New Jersey currently has about 1500 Holocaust survivors.  Petr said one of his big questions is how many Jews will be living here in 50 years as the number of children at a Hanukkah celebration about ten years ago was about 30, but in 2014 was about 7. 

Before heading to dinner Petr also showed us the pictures of the former Olomouc synagogue, and the copy of one of the stained glass windows, that donated by the Rabbi of the synagogue, that the Jewish Community Center had commissioned.  The original window, along with the other 5 surviving windows, we had seen earlier in the day in Lostice, as they were purchased by the educational center.    

Lastly, Petr told us that the Jewish Community Center had just received several stolpersteine [stumbling blocks] like we had been seeing since Berlin that the community was going to be laying at the site of the former synagogue in a few days. 




















After a great dinner at the Villa Primovesi, Ilona led us on a brief walking tour to the central square of Olomouc where she showed us the cast iron model of the town, the astronomical clock and the Holy Trinity column, built in the 18th century, which is the largest Baroque statue in the Czech Republic and on the list of UNESCO protected sites.
 









Student Reflections


Taylor says:

In the Jewish cemetery, seeing the memorial to the victims of the Holocaust, made me believe that the people of Olomouc want to keep the memory of the Holocaust alive.

Dasha says:
What hit me most today was the fact that only 700 survivors are left in the Czech Republic.  That amount of people is little more than the number of students in my whole school.  That makes me upset because that number is so small compared to the large population of the country.  There are more survivors in New Jersey  alone than the whole Czech Republic and it shows how much the Jews of Europe realized they were not wanted, even after their hardship.

Julie says:
Seeing the monument of the Jewish Cemetery in Olomouc makes it apparent as to how much the community would like to reassure survivors that the Holocaust will be remembered.

Karishma says:
It was reassuring to see people like Petr Papousek, that still work with the Jewish community and keep the memories of the Holocaust alive and to prove that this time in history will never be forgotten.

Henry says:
Through viewing the cemeteries I learned of the importance of guarding the history embedded within each grave.  The graves reflect eras of  both Jewish assimilation into a nationality and their expulsion from that identity.

Cydney says:
Today at the synagogue/educational center, we saw the items in the boxes of the desks that were the original seats saved from the Olomouc synagogue.  The objects, pictures, and letters I saw showed me how real it all was and put a lot of things into perspective for me.

Rose says:
When I first heard that the Jewish community is shrinking I would have thought that rabbis would make it easier to convert.  Instead, I learned that it’s a three year process.  They are trying to preserve their religion but make sure people are committed to Judaism.

Kayla says:
As we looked inside the boxes at the restored synagogue of items as simple as grocery lists and photographs, I realized that the victims were regular people like anyone I know and talk to every day.

Caitlin says:
By exploring small towns, it’s easier to stop looking at the Holocaust as something that devastated “people”  and start looking at it as something that devastated the life of the “individual”.

Autumn says:
It was fascinating to see the tombstones in Lostice compared to Berlin/Prague/Terezin, because the ones in Lostice were more scattered and in the other cemeteries they were more fancy-looking and large and intriguing but no matter how they looked, it still was emotional to walk through the cemeteries.

Kyle says:
To see a synagogue that was burned to the ground then restored over 50 years later is unbelievable.  It is apparent that Mr. Stipel had a deep respect for the history of the Lostice Jewish community to take the wheel and make sure this part of history was not forgotten.

Kelly says:
Sitting in the seats recovered from the temple and observing the lives of all the victims made me realize how the victims were just normal people like you and me.

Alejandra says:
I was connecting today with what we have previously learned.  I learned that some Jewish families were afraid to bring more children into the world after the Holocaust because they were afraid that it might happen to their children in the future. 

Caroline says:
Today made me realize that there are good people in the world.  Petr Papousek is following in a family tradition.  His grandfather Milos was a Holocaust survivor.  Milos took charge of and unified the Jewish Community in the 1990’s.  His hard work and dedication rubbed off on his grandson.  Petr is now the President of the Jewish Federation in the Czech Republic.

Camille says:
Seeing objects which could have belonged to Kurt Wischnitzer at Lostice really indicated he was interested in music.  He had a broken instrument and a set of violin strings in the box.  It is upsetting because these Jews had so many talents.  Kurt was a talented musician in that he could play more than one instrument.

Charlotte says: (TBA)



Julia says: (TBA)



Seungyoon says: (TBA)



Deanna says: (TBA)


Go to the following hashtag on Instagram to see what our students are posting:  #HST_2015

Watch today's videos at our YouTube Channel link below. 























Day 9 - Trsice

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Today we checked out of our hotel in Olomouc and our bus took us to the small town of Trsice which has become such an important and integral part of the Holocaust Study Tour in recent years.  We first made the connection on our Holocaust Study Tour in 2008 that Olomouc and Trsice were the towns Otto Wolf refers to in his diary which is one of the diaries in Salvaged Pages that we all study in our Holocaust classes.   The town of Trsice hid the family of Otto Wolf for three years during World War II,
bringing them food to their forest hideouts in the spring and summer and sheltering them in their homes and other buildings during the winter months.  Milos Dobry, whose grave we visited yesterday, first showed us the hideouts in the forest and introduced us to the mayor of Trsice, Leona Stejskalova. 

As we arrived in Trsice and walked into the Town Hall,  a former castle dating back to the 15th century, we were greeted at the entry, as we have always been, by Mayor Leona and her staff who offered us the traditional Czech greeting:  bread dipped in salt.   Sisters Zedenka and Ludmilla Ohera as well as several members of the Scout troop we had met in 2012 when the forest memorial was dedicated and have joined us every year since, were also there to greet us.

Inside the building we were officially greeted by Mayor Leona who presented each of the students with a special Trsice notebook.   Dr. Brezina, who was 5 when the Wolfs went into hiding and never knew Otto Wolf, but met the surviving Wolfs after the war and had been to the hideouts, told his story, and then Mrs. Zedenka Ohera, whose family had provided food and shelter for the Wolfs told of her memories.  Her father was one of the 19 men who, along with her uncle and Otto Wolf, were arrested in a random round up by the Nazis in April 1945 because of increased partisan activity in the area.  Mrs. Ohera described how they were all tortured, shot and then their bodies burned in a neighboring forest.  As she told her story, it was apparent to all, how emotionally devastating this event was for her and her sister, and how it remains so fresh in their memory. 



Mayor Leona then told the students that one of the projects the town had been working on in the past year was a book about the town of Trsice, including the story of the Otto Wolf family, and she then gave a copy to each of the teachers.  Before leaving for lunch at the restaurant across the street, Mrs. Tambuscio had a gift for Mayor Leona.  In 2012 the three high schools on the Holocaust Study Tour, New Milford [New Jersey], Bishop O’Dowd [California] and St. Thomas Aquinas [Kansas] had donated a memorial in the forest to memorialize the location of the Wolf family hideout.  Gayle Bart, was a participant on the Holocaust Study Tour last year as a junior, and this year, as a student in AP Studio Art, she created an original artwork which depicted the memorial.  Mrs. Tambuscio presented the framed artwork to Mayor Leone and the town of Trsice for the Otto Wolf Museum on behalf of the students on the Holocaust Study Tour.

After lunch with Mayor Leona, Dr. Brezina, the Oheras and the Czech scouts and their leader, we visited the memorial in the town’s central park,  which had been dedicated in 2013 to the people of the town of Trsice for their rescue efforts on behalf of the Wolf family, sponsored by Dr. Joan Silber of the U.S. Commission for the Preservation of America’s Heritage Abroad.








Next we climbed on the bus to take us to the entry point into the forest to visit the memorial we had dedicated 3 years ago.   Accompanied by the Czech Scouts, we all followed Shalmi as he led us through the forest to the Wolf family hideout caves and the memorial.  Arriving at the memorial we told the students the story of the caves and the memorial.  Maria, one of the Czech scouts read some passages from the Otto Wolf’s diary.















We had a long drive to our next stop, Dabrowa Tarnoska in Poland, so we hiked out of the forest, made a quick stop in Zakřov to say goodbye to Mrs. Ohera who had made some pastries for us, say goodbye to our friends Mayor Leona and the Czech scouts, as well as our Czech local guide Ilona, and then headed east towards Poland.


Arriving at our hotel, Cristal Park in Dabrowa Tarnoska we shared a dinner with the three teachers we had met last year who restored a Jewish synagogue as an educational center, as well as the Principal of their high school and the Superintendent.  The mayor of Dabrowa Tarnoska joined us and officially  and warmly welcomed our group to the town and gave each of the students a gift bag.   Tomorrow we will be spending time at the high school and synagogue with the teachers and students from the school.

























Day 10 - Dabrowa Tarnoska and Tarnow

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This morning after breakfast, Jurek Stelmech, and 20 of his students came to meet us at our hotel and walk us to their school, Zespol Szkol Ponadgimnazjalnych No. 2 which was nearby.  Dabrowa Tarnoska is a town in southern Poland of about 15, 000 residents.  We had visited here briefly last year to visit the synagogue which had been restored in 2012 and met three teachers who had been instrumental in its restoration and conversion in to an educational center and museum of Jewish culture.  We maintained contact with the teachers throughout the year and this year were invited to spend the day with them.

We started out at the school where we were once again officially greeted by the principal of the school with whom we had dinner last night.  We were accompanied upstairs by the Polish students to a room which had been prepared for our visit.  Signs with Polish and American flags, and significant quotes relative to Holocaust education chosen by the students, adorned the walls.  For example there was a quote by Janusz Korczak, a famous Polish Jewish educator who ran an orphanage in Warsaw and who walked with his 200 children to a transport which would take them to Treblinka in the great round up on August 6, 1942, which said “We must not leave the world as it is” and another by songwriter Bob Dylan, “A hero is someone who understands the responsibility that comes with their freedom.”

A witness to events in Dabrowa Tarnoska during the war, Wladyslaw Machnik, spoke to us about his interaction with Jews of the community as well as events that occurred during Nazi occupation.  We would learn later from information in the synagogue, that in 1939 the population of the town was about 6, 0000 and 80% of them, about 2,400 were Jews.  It was surprising to learn that there had been such a large percentage of Jews in the community.  150 Jews survived the Holocaust, most saved by locals, including Catholic priests who would issue false baptismal certificates and neighbors who would offer hiding places.  This assistance offered to Jews came at a great cost.  In 1942 there were 62 residents of the town who were executed for hiding Jews.  8 residents of Dabrowa County have received the title of Righteous Among the Nations from Yad Vashem for their rescue efforts.  In 1945 less than 100 Jews returned to Dabrowa Tarnowka and today there are no Jews in the town, the last surviving Jewish resident dying recently.  Mr. Machnik shared his stories and memories and we had a chance to ask questions. 

Next we were divided into two groups and were given an excerpt from a book, “Krwawe Upiory” by Adam Kazimerz Muslat, which described the fates of the Szkotak family in whose home four Jews had founding hiding in the attic unbeknownst to the family.  In a roundup the Jews were caught the family was executed.  The law which was issued by the German district governor of Warsaw on November 10, 1941, describing the penalty for helping a Jew in occupied Poland was also read.  Polish and American students and teachers then discussed the law, the event, rescue efforts in general and its ramifications.  We also talked about how though there were many Poles who did provide aid and rescued Jews, there were also many more who did not.   Why did people choose to help and why did others refuse?

After some refreshments provided by the school, we walked to the office of the Regional Superintendent of Education, Tadeusz Kwiatkowski, who greeted us and gave each of the students a gift bag from the town.


We then walked down the hill to the cultural center where we were thrilled to be able to attend the afternoon session of an all day artistic program put on by students from local high schools for the 12th annual Holocaust Day of Remembrance.  12 high schools in the counties of Tarnow and Dabrowa Tarnoska held competitions in their schools in which students chose a Yiddish or Hebrew song,  or a poem or excerpt from a book, story or play written by a Polish Jew.  Students not only learned the song or passage, but had to write essays to explain why they had chosen the piece and what it meant.  The teachers then chosen the finalists from each school and on this day they were all in the final competition.  The Master of Ceremonies was Jurek’s wife, Yola.  She introduced Mrs. Tambuscio as the leader of the Holocaust Study Tour and asked her and Mr. Barmore to say a few words about our program and how we had connected with the town, the school and the teachers.  The competition then resumed and we were treated to outstanding singing, dancing and dramatic presentations.  It was such a joyful celebration of Jewish music and words and we were so glad that we had this opportunity to witness this.  In a town with no Jews, these students and their schools and teachers had chosen to keep Jewish culture alive through this celebration on International Holocaust Remembrance Day.

Net we walked with Jurek and the Polish students to the beautiful restored synagogue of the town where Karolina Pikul talked to the students about how it was restored, the meaning of the paintings on the walls, and explained the artifacts.

After a brief pizza lunch with the Polish students on the grounds of the synagogue we walked across the street to the Jewish cemetery where Karolina explained the Nazis had removed all the tombstones and had used them to build roads and a pool in the area.  After the war, the locals found all the tombstones they could and brought them back to the cemetery, but without records they had no way of knowing which gravestone belonged with which grave, so they are randomly placed in the cemetery. The locals did know, however that the tombstones should face east, towards Jerusalem, so they did place them all facing east.   Karolina told us there had been two mass murders of Jews in the area.  In 1942 180 Jews had been forced to dig their grave and then were executed.  In 1943 36 members of the Judenrat [Jewish Council] in charge of the ghetto were executed.  There was also a memorial to the victims of the Holocaust  built by the Samuel Roth Foundation in 1993, using the fragments of tombstones which had been too damaged to be placed as a grave marker.  One Polish student and one American student each lit a candle and placed it at the memorial. 





Our last stop in the town was to visit a memorial to a rescuer family, the Medalas, built in 2005 to honor this family which had been executed for hiding Jews.

We drove back to the hotel where we said goodbye to our new Polish friends and picked up our luggage to head to Krakow, the last stop on the Holocaust Study Tour.  On our way we made a brief stop in Tarnow, where we visited the only remnants of the Skwer Starej Synagogue: the beautiful, tall bima.  The Nazis destroyed the synagogue in 1939 but many of the buildings that were part of the Tarnow Ghetto remain.

We arrived in Krakow at the Holiday Inn and set out on foot for our first dinner here, at the Kogel Mogel restaurant.  After dinner we walked to the Market Square where we soaked up the atmosphere, heard the bugler on the top of the hour, then headed back to the hotel for journaling, debriefing and a good night’s sleep.








 Student Reflections


Camille says…
Thank you for taking time out of your day to help us learn new things.  It felt great to feel so welcomed in your school.  You guys talked to us like we were your friends and that made me feel better about being there. 

Darya says…
I would like to thank you the community for welcoming us with so much hospitality.  The ability to be guided by the students was also a great experience because it allowed us to talk amongst each other and discuss the Holocaust and its effects and see that we share many of the same thoughts;  even though we are from different countries.  It was a pleasant day spent with nice people and I enjoyed seeing and learning about the town’s past and learning process about the Holocaust. 

Karishma says…
To the students of Zespot Szkot Ponadojemnszjalnych High School,

I would like to thank you personally for welcoming us to your country with open arms.  The cultural performance was enlightening and shows us that we can try to change the past with the future.  Your hospitality was memorable and the history you imparted on us will live forever.  Hope to see you soon.

Kyle says…
Thank you for being so warm and welcoming and making this such an enjoyable experience.  Your hospitality was so great and I just wish I had more time to get to know you.  Visiting the old synagogue was fascinating because it was in ruins and owned by the government and not too long ago it was restored to its former glory from before World War II.

Kayla says…
Thank you so much for allowing us to experience the Polish culture and for inviting us to your cultural voice presentation.  Today was a fantastic learning experience for all of us and we were honored to be part of your holocaust memorial service.

Cydney says…
Thank you so much for welcoming us into your school and sharing this experience of hearing what Mr. Machnik witnessed and learning about the synagogue.  Everyone was so welcoming and it’s fantastic that we can share our learning experiences with you all.


Caitlin says…
Thank you so much for welcoming us to your wonderful city and allowing us to be part of your ceremonies.  Listening to Mr. Machnik speak was so fasciniating and really made me think about what it meant to live in Poland during that time.  I will always remember the experiences I had today and am truly grateful for being given this opportunity.

Julie says…
It was such an amazing experience getting to meet and connect with all of the students through Mr. Machnik and his first hand realities, it was nice to see how interested the students were in the memorials and their stories as we were.

Caroline says…
I really appreciated hearing a witness speak to us today about what he saw as a young man during the Holocaust period. Thank you Mr. Machnik for your willingness to impart such a difficult story.

Julia says…
Thank you so much for welcoming me into your wonderful school. It was amazing to hear a witness speak. I loved hearing his stories. The synagogue brings so much to your history. It is so great that you renovated it and brought it back to life. I also enjoyed walking around the town. You’re doing great things at your school. Thank you.

Alejandra says…
Thank you so much for welcoming us into your school! I had so much fun visiting the school and seeing how your school is like. Thank you also for taking us to the memorial/ cemetery to learn the past of your town. Discussing the story of the family who got killed for unknowing hiding a Jewish family showed how this town did have an effect on the history and of the Holocaust.

Henry says…
Thank you for having us. Dabrowna Tarnowska is an amazing city and I loved the warm welcome. I would like to thank everyone for contributing Polish insight into the Holocaust. The cultural performance was fun and energetic.

Seungyoon says…
My new friends! I really appreciate the hospitality you showed us. You were welcoming, friendly, and funny. Thank you so much for having us. In addition, lighting the candle and placing it on the memorial at the graveyard was a once in a lifetime experience which I’ll never forget.


Taylor says…
Thank you for having us! Your performances were amazing and I felt so welcomed. Your school was wonderful and listening to Mr. Machnik speak was inspiring.
It was an amazing visit to the town of Dabrowna Tarnoska today, everyone was so friendly and it was a great learning experience. Thank you for making us feel welcome and showing us around your town. I really enjoyed the Holocaust remembrance program, you’re amazing you are all so talented!

Charlotte says…
Thank you for being so welcoming and inviting us into your school and helping us learn about your town and culture. Being able to hear the story of the witness was a great experience and especially being able to connect his story with the modern times and the student’s life was really interesting and enlightening.

Autumn says…
Thank you for your instantly greeting us with all smiles. I enjoyed hearing your student’s personal stories of their great grandparents during the Holocaust. Thank you for all the nice gifts since we have arrived to Poland. Can’t wait to explore more of Poland. Thank you so much for being so hospitable towards us and welcoming us into your town. You are all very kind, genuine people and you have a beautiful town. I thoroughly enjoyed spending time at your school and with all the students. Thank you again!














Day 11 - Krakow

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This morning we were so happy to have our regular local guide, Paulina, who had been ill yesterday, join us.  Our day began in the Jewish Quarter, Kazmierz. Shalmi gave us the history of why large numbers of Jews came to Poland in the 16th century when they were invited by the aristocracy. Jews came here and formed communities called shtetls in the rural, mostly unpopulated areas. Jews provided capital for the seeds that needed to be planted, and also had a monopoly on the sale of vodka and this became a very lucrative enterprise. Jews became the tools of the nobility, who didn't like them, but needed them. However, this put the Jews in a precarious position with the local serfs, who were Catholic. Shalmi reminded us that Jews were outside of Christian law [ex lex] and therefore received their protection from the king who regarded them as his property.

As the Middle Ages progressed, Jews came to this area in huge numbers. For Jews, Poland was a land of opportunity. Unlike the Jews in Berlin and Prague, the Jews here did not assimilate; they acculturated. In Germany the Jews wanted to be German, but in Poland it was different.  By the 20thcentury, most Jews here spoke Polish.  They took on and enjoyed the culture but did not seek to take on the identity as Poles.  This had much to do with the Polish-Jewish relations at the time.  By 1919, this caused problems with Poles who wanted to be identified by their nationality, and did not see Jews as a part of their nation, but as outsiders. By 1939 in Poland, because of many factors, including a bad economy, the Poles have a very strained relationship with all minorities here, including the Jews, who represent 10% of the population. Because so many Jews lived in the heart of big cities, their presence wass felt more by the non-Jewish residents.

Our first stop in the Jewish Quarter was the Stara Synagogue in the Jewish Quarter, also known as the Old Synagogue because it was built in 1407.  Shalmi told us how, when the king wanted Jews to come and manage his properties, Jews could not come alone, but needed to live in communities.  A Jew, for example, cannot pray alone, but ten men, a minion, are needed for prayer.  Jews also required a rabbi, a kosher butcher, etc.  This was all essential for the Jews because of their ‘open account with God’ that Shalmi had spoken of earlier.  As an exiled people, they needed to balance the practical [their existence in the real world amidst Christians] with the spiritual [their need to continue to abide by God’s commandments in order to have God forgive them and return them to their homeland in Jerusalem].  This meant Jews were ambivalent about their two roles.

Inside the synagogue Shalmi pointed out the various parts of the synagogue that we were becoming familiar with, explained the difference between the menorah and the hanukkiyya, taught us that the Sabbath was the most holy day in the Jewish calendar.  The Sabbath represents the difference between the sacred and the secular, those two worlds in which Jews lived, and told us how the havdalah[meaning ‘differentiating’] were used to close the Sabbath.  Shalmi also told us about some of the practices of Hasidism, such as the method of teaching a young boy to read beginning at the age of three, by putting honey on a letter of  the alphabet and then saying the sound so that the child connects learning to something positive and sweet and the importance and rationale in the Jewish community behind arranged marriages.
From here we crossed the square to visit the Remu Synagogue, also known as the New Synagogue because it was built in 1650, which is currently under extensive renovation.  Outside we walked through the Jewish cemetery, where Jews were given land to bury their dead.  We had seen one other cemetery located next to the synagogue in Prague (the Pinkas Synagogue) and Shalmi reminded us that this was unusual.  Jews would never place a cemetery close to the synagogue unless there was no alternative.  However, since Christians told the Jews where they could live and where they could have land, this was the property allotted to them to bury their dead.  Shalmi shared several stories about individuals buried in this cemete




We next visited the Tempel Synagogue, a reform Jewish synagogue built in the 1860’s which has Moorish designs on the ceiling and is quite ornate, reminiscent of the Spanish Synagogue in Prague.  Hasidic Jews did not like this synagogue which incorporated elements of Christian churches such as the pews aligned and facing front and the fact that the day of prayer was changed to Saturday.  The Hasidic Jews said of the building, that it was not a synagogue but a temple, for Gentiles.  The word ‘temple’ therefore, used to describe a synagogue, was originally a pejorative word referring to non-traditional Jewish synagogues.  Inside the synagogue was a klezmer concert and we were able to enjoy the music for a short while.

On our way to lunch, we stopped briefly to get a sense of the Jewish market.

Our bus drove us across the Vistula river to the Jewish Ghetto of Krakow, where the Nazis forced the Jews to move. The Krakow Ghetto was a sleeping ghetto, where the Jews slept at night, and worked in factories outside the ghetto during the day. The Jews ran this ghetto, and in contrast to the Warsaw ghetto which had an uprising, the Krakow Jews were determined to do nothing to provoke the Nazis to do anything worse.  As Shalmi said, the leadership stressed that nothing should be done to affront or confront the Nazis.   The ghetto residents built the walls surrounding it in such a decorative way, showing their resilience and belief that this ghetto would be a new protected area, where they would be able to ride out the war. We saw both of the remaining remnants of this wall during our drive to our next stop.

In front of the museum that once was the pharmacy of Tadeusz Pankiewicz,  Apteka Pod Orlem (Pharmacy Under the Eagle), we looked out over the open memorial, with chairs, that represent the furniture that the Jews carried over the bridge into these cramped quarters, where 17,000 people crowded into 320 houses. Shalmi told us the inspirational story of Polish pharmacist Tadeusz Pankiewicz whose diary documents ghetto life.

Inside the museum there is an exhibition about the Krakow ghetto and the role of Tadeusz Pankiewicz.  Visitors can open drawers, look into cabinets, browse through binders with quotes from his diary, smell substances in the numerous jars of chemicals, and search for information in a multimedia center. 





Here Shalmi explains that Plaszow Camp, located only 5 miles from here, was built by the people from the Krakow Ghetto who believed they would survive the war because they were building a labor camp. They even built a barrack for children there, so they believed that their families would remain intact. However, on March 13, 1943, all Jews from the ghetto were supposed to report to the square at 7:00 a.m. Once there, all children under age 14 were told to line up separately. Their parents were told that they would come to Plaszow the next day. Pankiewicz chronicles in his diary that some saw this as a bad sign and rushed to the pharmacy to purchase one of two drugs.  One of the drugs was Valerium--a drug that put their babies to sleep, so that parents could smuggle their babies into the Plaszow camp inside of suitcases.  Shalmi told us that 12 children are known to have been smuggled into Plaszow in this manner.  The second drug requested by many Jews was Cyanide, for suicide.  At 1:00 p.m., the Nazis ordered those not in the children's line to start marching from the ghetto to Plaszow. They left behind what they were unable to carry. The following day, their children were taken away and shot. Two days later, some parents found out when they were forced to sort the children's clothing, and found the clothing of their own children.





We stopped briefly at Oscar Schindler's factory, a recently opened part of the Jewish Museum of Krakow, so that we could see the gate to the factory, which is still the original.

Our final stop of the day was Plaszow labor camp where Shalmi explained the geographic set up of the camp and its function.  We stood at the site which was the hill of executions where Ukrainian  commando units would carry out the executions.  Shalmi explained the history of the camp over its two years of existence and described how a transport of 10,000 Hungarian women from Auschwitz in May of 1944  who came to Plaszow wearing striped uniforms, with shaved heads and numbers tattooed on their arms, was how the Jews of Plaszow finally learned what had been happening in Auschwitz, not far away. 

We headed back to the hotel where the students were able to participate in a Google Hangout before getting ready for dinner at one of our favorite restaurants in Krakow, Scandale.


Please go to our YouTube Channel and watch our videos from the past days. Slow wifi on the road caused the delay.



















Day 12 - Auschwitz - Birkenau

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Today we spent a very cold and windy day in what was Konzentration Lager [KL] Auschwitz.  Auschwitz was not one camp but was a complex of three prmary sites:  Auscwhitz I was the administrative center and concentration camp for primarily Polish priosners, Auschwitz-Birkenau (Auschwitz II] was the death camp, and Buna [Auschwitz III] was for manufacturing and testing facilities, which also had dozens of labor subcamps.

We met our guide, Wojciech, who would take us through Auschwitz I which now serves as the museum.  Wojciech had been our guide before and we had been very impressed with both his knowledge and his style of interacting with the students, both in asking and in answering questions, so we were very pleased.  We started under the iconic sigh:  Arbeit Macht Frei.  There, he gave us the history of the camp.  Built in the town of Oswiecim, Auschwitz is the Germanization of the name of the town.  It was established by the Nazis in 1940 and was in use until the Allied liberation in 1945.

As we stood outside the gate we could see several of the 28 brick buildings which made up the camp.  The living conditions in the camp were severe ---hard work, starvation, disease and brutal treatment--- so that the average time between one’s arrival in Auschwitz I and his death was about 2 months.

In Block 4 we were shown a large model of a gas chamber which we would see later in the day, in Birkenau, which showed the three phases of its operation.  First, there was the disrobing room where people undressed.  The second phase was where two Zyklon B pellets were dropped through the vents in the roof, which with water, created a deadly hydrogen cyanide.  The total time necessary to kill all 1500 people in the gas chamber was twenty minutes.  The third phase required Jewish prisoners in a special unit called the Sonderkommando, to remove the bodies and burn them in the underground crematorium.  The average length of time one served in the Sonderkommando before being killed himself, was 3 months.


In  Block 5 were exhibited the ‘evidence of crimes’:  belongings brought by victims to Auschwitz, confiscated by the SS and found after liberation.  Separate rooms containing shoes, artificial limbs and crutches, eyeglasses, prayer shawls, shaving kits, household cooking items, baby clothes, and other items which had been packed in the labeled suitcases they packed.  These provided physical evidence of the existence of so many victims as well as some insight into what they might have thought was their destination.  A large room with a wall-to-wall display case of more than 4,000 pounds of human hair was especially moving.  The hair was sold to textile manufacturers for production of army uniforms or gloves and socks for railroad workers.

In Block 7 we could see the living quarters of the prisoners in Auschwitz.  Lining the walls of the halls were photographs of the prisoners, with their name, prisoner number, nationality, date deported to Auschwitz and date of death.   Here we could see what we had been told at the beginning, that the average life expectancy of a prisoner was 2-3 months because of the harsh conditions. 

In Block 11, which served as the prison for the camp we saw three types of punishment cells:  dark cell, starvation cell and the standing cell in which three or four people could be forced to stand for days at a time.  Punishment might be 3-5 days in one of these cells for a minor infraction of a camp rule or 2 weeks for sabotage.  Time in a punishment cell could be a death sentence.   After viewing the execution wall between Blocks 10 and 11, where tens of thousands of prisoners were lined up naked and shot, we stopped to see in Block 27, an exhibit created by Yad Vashem which opened last year.  Wojciech told us that many nations such as Netherlands, and Hungary had created special exhibits in various block barracks.  This one, created by Yad Vashem, was highlighted with an exhibit called the Book of Names.  In a long room, a book as big as the room, fills two sides of thousands of pages, listing the names and some information such as place of birth and birthdate, place and date of death, if these were known, of more than four million documented Jewish victims of the Holocaust.







Our last stop in Auschwitz I was the crematorium of the camp.  There we saw the home of the camp commandant Rudolf Hoss and the gallows where he was hanged for his war crimes in 1947.  The gallows was used once --- for his execution.  We then walked through the crematorium which was used to cremate the bodies of people who had perished in the camp.

After a brief bag lunch on the bus as it was bitterly cold, we drove the short distance to Auschwitz-Birkenau where Shami spent two hours showing us the death camp.  He talked about how the camp had changed in the spring of 1944 when the Nazis expected one million Hungarian Jews to be transported here.  It was then that they added the rail spur coming into the camp, preparing for the influx of prisoners.  Next Shalmi spoke of the importance of “The Ramp” where the selection process was made determining whether one was to live or die.  He told us several emotional stories shared with him as he chronicled their testimony, in which they described their experiences on The Ramp.  He told us many survivors often speak of their life “before the ramp” and their “life after the ramp.”





Our last stop was the Auschwitz Jewish Center which has a museum, synagogue and education center and presents Jewish life in the town of Oswiecim before and after the Holocaust.  Before heading back to the hotel, we also enjoyed some hot chocolate and coffee to warm up from the day in their adjoining Café Bergson, which is located in the home of the last surviving Jew in the town, a Mr. Kluger, who died a few years ago. 






Watch today's videos on our YouTube Channel at 




 Student Reflections


Karishma says...
As I brush my fingers against the stained pages     

4 million names flickering through the ages

Ester
Herman
Ickowicz

And there I read "Khan"
My name
But how
I am not Jewish
I was never told to be Jewish
But there lay 16 Khans
Is there even a bond
I stand there in shame 
In the book of names


Taylor says...
When inside Birkenau, Mr. Barmore told a story about a guard seeing a little boy standing alone calling out for his mother that was no where in sight. The guard walked down and saw a young woman and grabbed her and screamed at her but she denied the fact he was her son but when they approach him, he ran to her arms screaming "Mommy." The woman said "Please I'm only 19 years old, I want to live." This story made me think about all the other families that had to make the same decisions.

Henry says...
As I walked through Birkenau and heard stories of the tragedies that occurred it became clear ones perspective of events can be easily abandoned to aid one's life. Birkenau embodies events of misery and in order to retain life and survive individuals took vastly different courses of action. Some were forced to abandon their innocence to retain life and some were forced to blur the line of innocence to cherish life.

Kayla says...
It is hard to imagine that the tragedies of the Holocaust happened right where I stood in Auschwitz and Birkenau, but as Mr. Barmore told us the stories of the people he had met, and we looked at the places where they occurred it felt completely real. Every place that we saw today made me have different emotions and places like the room of human hair made me realize how real this truly was and how many victims there were.


Kyle says...
Being at Auschwitz was so powerful, for one of the first times in my life I was completely speechless. Seeing the horrible living conditions these human beings just like us had to live through was a moving experience and just showed that some things just cannot be taught through a textbook. The most painful thing in my opinion that I saw today was seeing the mug shots of these innocent prisoners faces which were all bruised up and expressionless from the cruel torture the camp caused to these prisoners.


Kelly says...
Today was certainly one of the most influential days of the trip. I was immediately struck by the barbed wire that surrounded the camp, it was hard to imagine what the Jews were confined to even thro


Julia says...
Going through Auschwitz was a surreal experience. I thought that I would go there and cry. But everything seemed so unreal to me. During some parts of it I felt as if I was in a dream. I have been reading stories about Auschwitz since I was little and to actually be there was amazing. The story when Mr. Barmore said the girl told her mom to die hit me hard. The girl forever has to live with the guilt of her mom only wanting to save her. Throughout the day that was the only story I could actually picture happening. All through this trip I have been able to picture situations, but today I could not even imagine what was happening there during World War II.  It was hard to see a place where such cruel things happened to such innocent people.

Caitlin says...
Being at Auschwitz and Birkenau was so powerful. I cannot fully articulate what I saw today, but I think the thing that struck me the most was when Mr. Barmore said "the main part of the story is when there's no story." The survivors we hear from today are the minority and I think today that really began to sink in.

Camille says...
As soon as I stepped into Auschwitz, the atmosphere changed. It was suddenly colder, darker, and gloomier when I entered. It was difficult to not picture the tragedy that had happened there. It felt like I was living both in the present and the past. It felt so real like if I were living it. Before visiting Auschwitz, all this history just felt like words on a page but seeing it and being there made the whole thing solid and undeniable. This day will stay with me forever.

Rose says...In both Auschwitz and Birkenau it took information and my imagination to even begin to understand the past of these places. Seeing the room full of women's hair, the last physical part of them that still remains was surreal. Mr. Barmore told about a man who stopped traffic to let the train to Auschwitz through and felt that he had no part in the killing, but he did, they all did. We believe that we are past this part of our history and this cruelty but in what ways have we changed? How are we so different that this could never happen again?

Julie says...
As a student who has studied the Holocaust I can say that this trip has truly amazed me. Walking through Auschwitz I understood more clearly what all of the testimonies, diaries and textbooks are stating when they describe the scenery as well as emotions they saw and felt. It's hard to imagine what these people had to go through while inmates in the camps. When I approached the entrance gate I saw what thousand and thousand of innocent people saw and that was a certain beginning of terror.
  

Caroline says…
Today is a day that I will never forget. Walking through “Arbeit Macht Frei” gate in front of Auschwitz, I suddenly felt as if I was looking at a photograph in class. I wondered what thoughts were running through their minds when they arrived. Did they know what was about to happen? As we proceeded through the camp, things became more unreal. The women’s hair, the children’s shoes, and the thousands of suitcases, left me speechless. I will take the experiences of today with me forever.

Cydney says...

Walking through Auschwitz-Birkenau today was both fascinating and heartbreaking. It was amazing to actually see the camps I've studied about in school and read about in books because it's one thing to hear about it but when you see it in person it makes it more serial. Two things that really made me emotional was the display of the hair from the women that were in the camp and the children's shoes. I think that those two things hit me hard because the women had their heads shaved upon arrival and to me that's such a traumatic event. These women had no one idea what their fate was or what they were going to be doing in this camp and right away they were stripped of their clothing and they had their heads shaved. The large pile of children's shoes broke my heart because they were so tiny and the fact that those children's lives ended so soon and tragically was really hard for me to handle. 

Seungyoon says...

When Mr. Barmore was telling the story about the son who survived after his mom pushed him on the ground, I felt a rush of emotions and imagined the guilt the son has to face for the rest of his life after saying to his mom and sister "I hope you die!". Ironically, his mom and sister were really going to die and she pushed him away for him to survive. After Mr. Barmore finished explaining the story, I teared up because this mom is exactly the same kind of parent my mom is. My mom would do anything and everything for my brother and I to have the best life possible. Therefore, my mom would do the exact same thing in order for me to survive. Furthermore, I truly feel I grasped the idea of decisions people had to make during the Holocaust in order for their children or loved ones to survive. I will never forget Mr. Barmore's stories about these people and remember them to honor their choices.


Charlotte says…

Walking through and seeing the exhibitions in Auschwitz-Birkenau, the word I thought of most was "vast." it was an indescribable feeling to stand on The Ramp. No matter where you looked, all you could see was the camp and it was heartbreaking to realize that this is what the prisoners saw and what they probably felt was just the feeling of no escape and no freedom.

Darya says…

Today was so emotional especially seeing the names of the 4 million people that were killed due to the Holocaust. It struck me so hard when I found the names of my ancestors because many of them were killed during it and seeing their names was all too real. Another factor that I could not get over is that we were walking where the victims walked nearly 70 years ago but we were the lucky ones because we were able to walk out when millions did not. Seeing the ruins of the barracks and the gas chambers made me sick to my stomach because the Nazis had the audacity to try to destroy the camps when they realized they were going to lose the war. The fact that they wanted to destroy any evidence of their horrific crimes is disgusting because it amplifies the idea of them being cowards and not wanting to face the reality of their actions. Today was both emotionally and physically challenging and one that I will never forget because I was able to connect emotionally by going and learning further about Auschwitz-Birkenau.

Autumn says…
Today I walked the streets and railroads of where millions of Jews, gypsies, and others were killed, abused and taken advantage of. It really got to me when I saw a video of a 4 year old girl dancing and smiling in a flower garden and she was so innocent and her fate was led into a different direction... I learned and took in so much today and I am blessed to have been given this opportunity to be on this trip. 

 Deanna says.... 

After visiting all the camps today, it really made a huge effect on me. The items of those who lost their lives were stored to be looked at and photographed. Several feet of hair of the women whose lives were taken were put on display too. The most interesting part of today was the story we were told where the mother pushes away the son continuously while he chases after her, but only later does he realize she was pushing him away to save his life.

Alejandra says... 

Today's visit was to Auschwitz was emotionally. Mr. Barmore told us stories of personal testimonies of those who went through the transportation. Hearing the stories made me feel fully connected. Having younger siblings I'm very protective of them and to hear how many children were killed was painful to hear. Today was an emotional visit.







                                                                                 


















Students' Multimedia Reflections

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Cydney's Flipagram




Taylor's Flipagram



Caroline's Flipagram




Kelly's Flipagram



Autum's Flipagram



Camille's Flipagram



Julia's Flipagram



Julie's Flipagram



Kayla's Flipagram



Alejandra's Flipagram



Charlotte's Flipagram



Seungyoon's flipagram



Darya's Flipagram



Kyle's Flipagram



Henry's Flipagram



Caitlin's Flipagram





Day 13 - Krakow

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This morning after breakfast we said goodbye to Shalmi, presented him with our individual thank you letters and took our final group picture.

Today we spent the day with our guide, Paulina, walking and learning the history of Krakow and the Wawel Castle district.  Our first stop was at the foot of the Castle, to see the fire-breathing Krakow dragon and learn how it came to be the symbol of the city.  Paulina also told us that unlike Warsaw and most other Polish cities, Krakow had not been destroyed by the German army in their war to occupy Poland, because the Nazis had decided to make Krakow their headquarters.  Most buildings in Krakow, therefore, are the original buildings.


 We saw the Royal Palace and the statue of Pope John Paul II that stands outside Wawel Cathedral. Also outside the cathedral, Paulina pointed out an odd assortment of massive bones that are chained to the wall above the door.  While some claim these to be the bones of the Wawel Dragon, they are believed to be a blue whale, woolly mammoth, and rhinoceros, or all three. Paulina told us it is believed they have magical properties, and are credited with protecting the city from destruction during centuries of Polish partition and during WWII when Krakow was not damaged, while almost every other major city in Poland was decimated.  She said that it is believed that when the bones fall, it will be the end of the world.

From here, we walked back to the square, which was all set up as the end point for a marathon being run today, and enjoyed an afternoon that included lunch and shopping for souvenirs from beautiful, hospitable Krakow, before heading back to the hotel to prepare for our final dinner this evening.  















Day 5: Prague

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From our view at the top of the hill, we overlooked the spectacular view of Prague, and discussed its different units: The Castle Town, Lesser Town, New Town, and the Old Town which includes the Jewish Ghetto. All of these were in place by the 14th century, when Charles IV was the Holy Roman Emperor and Prague was the capital of the Holy Roman Empire. Next, we saw the Czernin Palace, which today houses the Foreign Ministry, and the Loretto Shrine, one of the finest baroque structures.
 



































Continuing into the Castle premises, we saw a whole diversity of architectural styles, beginning at the St. Vitus Cathedral, with its unique gothic and neo-gothic architecture. As we walked through the king's palace, Kamila explained the significance of manure in world history and how defenestration was utilized to punish individuals.

We then went into the Lobkowicz Palace. The Lobkowicz family is one of the most important in Czech nobility whose estate and property were extensive. They lost their property twice in recent history: once to the Nazis, and once to the Communists. They retrieved it in 1989 after the Velvet Revolution, and recently opened it to the public as a museum. Inside we had an intimate look at the inside of palace life, and especially at the Lobkowicz's contribution to culture: music, painting, and architecture.

The highlight of our day was our visit to the U.S. Ambassador's Residence.  Ambassador Norman Eisen greeted us and told us the amazing story of the Czech history that the Ambassador's residence represents.  Built in the late 1920's for Otto Petschek, a Jewish man whose grandfather started as a peddler selling his wares. In just two generations, this family became the wealthiest in Czechoslavakia.  Because they were Jewish, they fled in 1938 when the Nazis came.  In two days, they packed their things and left.  Untouched by the Nazi officials who lived there during the war period, all of the Petschek's beautiful belongings, including furniture, chandeliers, and most ironically their Jewish Encyclopedia set.  Fittingly, as the Allied soldiers of General Patton's divisions approached, the Nazis had two days in which to flee.



Following the war, the building was purchased by the United States in 1946 and has been used as the Ambassador's Residence since then.  Mr. Eisen, whose mother was born to a very poor Jewish family in Czechoslavakia survived Auschwitz, immigrated to the United States, and gave birth to her son, Mr. Eisen, in 1960 in Los Angeles.  Mr. Eisen told us that he grew up as part of a large community of Holocaust survivor families, and that he thought tattooed numbers were on every adult's arm. 





After posing with our group for a photograph, we got to tour the main floor of the residence with the Czech assistant who has worked as the chief of staff for the residence since 2001.

HST 2014 with US Ambassador Norman Eisen

He showed us the Jewish Encyclopedias belonging to the Petscheks, still in the same spot on the shelf of the library, the back wall of the mansion leading to the garden terrace that recedes into the floor with the push of a button, and most importantly for us, the table in the entryway that still has the Nazi inventory sticker underneath.
 
Encyclopedia Judaica owned by the Petscheck family remains in the library today.


The sticker, stamped with the Nazi swastika, hides beneath the surface of the table, which proudly displays a crystal Menorah.  For the first time since the 1930s, this residence keeps a kosher kitchen with the first ever United States kosher dishes for official state dinners.  In the words of Mr. Eisen, the story has come "full circle." In a Washington Post 2013 interview, Ambassador Eisen quoted his mother as having said: "The Nazis took us out of there on cattle cars: my son flew back on Air Force One."  Our Jewish ambassador to the Czech Republic in Prague represents not only the United States, but a Holocaust story with a happy ending fitting for this city of legends.






 












Student Reflections

Nicole says...
The Czech history that we had learned today taught me how religion was a part of Czech culture until the Plague and people then believed that it was irrelevant to believe in God. Religious tension which turned into irrational racial superiority of the Nazi party, was also the basis for Nazi Germany scapegoating the Jews.

Trevor says...
From my time in Berlin and Prague, the Jews and the Czechs shared a common conflict for challenging the authority of the church order. In a city full of Catholic churches and influences in Prague, the Jews and the Czechs represented a minority against the authority.

Mackenzie says...
The Strahov Library was run by the monastery and their main goal was to educate. The monasteries wanted the Catholics to be educated, so in order to do that they provided thousands of books that would be available for them.

Dana says...
St. Vitus Cathedral in the dark ages used pictures to depict stories of the bible in the stained glass because the common Czech was illiterate. In contrast, Jews were brought to Prague because they understand how to read and write.

Sarah says...
Ultimately Jewish history is Czech history. Jews, as a part of Czech society for centuries have contributed immensely to society in the areas of commerce and education; thus playing a pivotal role in the enlightenment of Europe. The Jews of Europe became increasingly assimilated, believing themselves to be Czech first and Jewish second. Today, seeing the US Ambassador's incredible residence, built by the Petschek family, it became evident Czech Jews were Czechoslovakians; thus making it seem more astounding that the German Nazis would attempt to eliminate the entire Jewish population despite their obvious positive influence of all of Europe.

Tara says...
Since before the Golden Age of Spain, Jews had been money lenders as Christians considered it a sin. This can also be seen within the literature of Shakespeare, with Shylock the Jew featured as a money lender in the Merchant of Venice. While in Prague, I learned that a ruler named Rudolph, made a law allowing people to start their own businesses to provide economic growth in exchange for a 12 year tax exemption. Economy is the basis of any country and with the Jews and other educated people their financial niche became a monopoly at least until the Enlightenment.



Day 6: Prague

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 Our second full day in Prague focused on the Jewish Quarter. This part of the city is just off the old town square: as Shalmi says, in the center, but off center. Because Christians were forbidden by religious law to loan money and Jews were able to loan money to Christians, Jews were invited to Prague for economic reasons, to help in business transactions. The king allowed them to live in a central location, but also required them to pay taxes. Throughout the Middle Ages, Christians carried out pogroms against the Jews. The Jews lived with the reality that at any time they might have to leave.
The Old-New Synagogue, the oldest functioning synagogue in the world, was built in the year 1270. This synagogue or shul, from which we get the word “school,” was where Jews studied the Talmud, the first five books of the Christian Old Testament. The shul is central in Jewish life. Jewish boys, even in the Middle Ages, began learning to read at the age of three. Because the Jews were always literate, this set them apart from the majority of society.

Here, Shalmi teaches us that the use of star of David as a Jewish symbol originated in Prague. Displayed proudly in The Old-New Synagogue is the flag that the emperor allowed the Jews to hoist. The symbol on the flag is the star of David, or Jewish star which was the family symbol of the Cohen family, a prominent family in the congregation when the Jews made the flag. The flag also displays the yellow hat, which was a derogatory symbol because the king made the Jews of Prague wear the yellow hat whenever they left the ghetto. Although it was originally meant to be disrespectful--it was the color yellow because that was a symbolic color of the plague--it later becomes a symbol of pride for the Jews, as they chose to take a negative and turn it into something positive that connected the community.



Before World War II began, when the Nazis came into Prague in April of 1939, occupying the remainder of Czechoslovakia, they required all Jews to register. According to Nazi law, any person who had one grandparent who was Jewish was classified as a Jew. Many Czech Jews, who were highly assimilated, did not identify themselves as Jewish, but they did register. Then one day they received a letter telling them they had been summoned, and needed to bring a suitcase. They were being sent to Theresienstadt,a former garrison town, outside Prague, where we will visit tomorrow.


At the Pinkas Synagogue, we see the memorial to the Jews of Prague and the surrounding towns who the Nazis murdered during the Holocaust. Upstairs,we pause at the name Otto Wolf, from Trsice.






Outside the Pinkas Synagogue is one if the most famous Jewish cemeteries in the world, made famous by the false document, "The Protocols of the Elders of Zion." In this pamphlet used as antisemitic propaganda, it states that the rabbis supposedly conspired to take over the world at a meeting here in this cemetery.

Our last synagogue in the Jewish quarter was the Spanish synagogue. This was an ornate synagogue in the Moorish style. Many Jews were apparently embarrassed by its opulence. Shalmi said some Jews felt it was less a place to pray than a place to be seen. He pointed out the massive organ which might equally be found in a large cathedral. 

Our bus picked us up at our hotel to meet our friends Tony and Eva Vavrecka, hosts for our lovely dinner this evening. Eva is the daughter of Lici Wolf, who had completed her brother, Otto’s diary, after he was arrested and killed by the Nazis. In 2012 Tony and Eva helped us commemorate the first memorial located in the forest by the hideouts where the Wolf family lived for three years. In 2013 they accompanied us again as we commemorated a second memorial to the rescuers in Trsice. The Vavrecka's warm and gracious hospitality touched us all and we are so very grateful for their friendship. 

 






Student Reflections:
 
Sarah says:
Today, while walking through the Jewish Quarter of Prague and visiting the synagogues, I learned that each synagogue reflects the state of the Jews living in the area and their relationship with the rest of society. For example, the Old New Synagogue was built in the 13th century in the same Gothic style as Catholic churches during the same period. Additionally, the Spanish Synagogue’s opulence and ornate decorations revealed the ascendance of Jews in Czech society during the 19thcentury. Despite facing marginalization, the synagogues the Jews of Prague built exemplified the importance of maintaining one’s identity and faith.

Dana says:
Today we visited the Pinkas Synagogue which has been converted to a memorial to victims of the Holocaust and a museum. One of the exhibitions upstairs contained drawings created by children who were living in ghettos. One of the drawings that touched me was by an 8 year old who drew a picture of herself playing with her friends before she was deported to a ghetto. The overwhelming part of it was that she had scribbled it all in black: there were no faces, just blank circles for heads.

Raquel says:
Today we went to the Pinkas Synagogue which had the towns, names, dates of birth and dates of death of 80,000 Czech Jews who were murdered in the Holocaust. Just looking around and seeing these names made me wonder again why the Nazis would kill so many Jews. I learned that these names are here for a reason, and that is to be remembered. Their names will have meaning for everyone.

Gayle says:
I did not know the origin of the Star of David until today. We visited the Old New Synagogue, which was built in the 1300’s and is still in use today. In the Synagogue hangs a flag on which is a Star of David. The Star of David was first used on a flag in Prague as a Jewish symbol when the emperor gave the Jewish community the right to have a flag which could be raised on holy days. I learned that the Star of David was not named after King David, but was a symbol used by a Jewish printing shop in Prague. I am now curious as to why this symbol was chosen and after whom it was actually named.

Nicole says:
From today’s visits, I learned a lot about the history of Jews in the Czech Republic. When we walked into the Pinkas Synagogue, on the walls there were 80,000 names of Czech Jews that had their lives taken away during the Holocaust. I was amazed at the number of walls in so many rooms of the synagogue, all covered with the names of the people who were so innocent. There are so many names, but even looking at one name had me thinking about that one person and the tragic fate that had occurred.

Mackenzie says:
Today we went to the Pinkas Synagogue which was a museum that had the names and dates of all the Jews in Czechoslovakia that died in the Holocaust. There was a section of the synagogue that displayed the drawings of children in the ghetto. One picture that really stood out to me was of a happy family boarding a train that would then take them to a concentration camp. This family had no idea what was going to occur next.

Trevor says:
Today in Prague I experienced Czech Jewish life through three different synagogues in the city built by the Jewish population. In one synagogue, 80,000 names marked the walls as a memorial to the Jews who lost their lives during the Holocaust. I also learned that today there are only 1,800 practicing Jews in Prague, and about 20,000 Jews who are either unaware of their background or do not practice the Judaism.

Shane says:
In the 1800’s Jews separated themselves from their religion to become involved in European culture. The Holy Roman Emperor had allowed them certain privileges but required them to learn German and they fell in love with the German culture. The Germans, however, would not accept them as part of their society, so the Jews immersed themselves in the German culture, forming their own identity, by becoming artists, musicians, writers and scholars. From this would stem a modern antisemitism. 

Matt says:
 What struck me most was how the Jews tried to fit into German society. Synagogues from the 13th to 19th century with elaborate designs and details were built to look like churches. The synagogues had arched ceilings and organs just like churches. All for the sole purpose of being accepted in society.

Tara says:
 Walking through the second floor of the Pinkas synagogue, Nick pointed out something I hadn't noticed down on the first floor of the memorial. Written on some of the panels of the names of those who died during the Holocaust were, from right to left, the Hebrew letters ת (tav), ה (hay), ע (ayin), ב (bet), and ח (chet), which were marked clearly at the top. When I asked, Kamila, our tour guide, said that it was the initials for a Hebrew phrase often put at the bottom of a gravestone. Later, outside in the cemetery, she pointed out a gravestone that had the initials written at the bottom. I found this interesting, as I had never learned this before, and is much like a dreidel during Hanukkah, with נ (nun), ג (gimmel), ה (hay), and ש (shin), standing for "nes gadol hays sham", or "a great miracle happened there".
 
Nick says:
Today, we learned about the Jewish role and standing in early Czech history. The Jewish people were known for their usefulness in trade and were protected and hired by nobility as long as they remained useful. During World War II the Czech Jews were so assimilated into Czech society that many did not consider themselves Jewish. The Nazis, however, defined a Jew as a person having even one Jewish grandparent, and all Czechs who fit this had to register as Jew. Today there are only 1,800 practicing Jews in Prague.

Jane says:
Mr. Barmore discussed how the Jews were a group of people who were not wanted by the society in which they lived, but were needed by that society to advance. This made me think of how the Jewish people seem to continue to struggle and advance despite the obstacles put in their path.

Kyle says:
Today in the Pinkas Synagogue there was a section of the museum in which there were drawings from the Terezin ghetto drawn by young children. There was one that stood out to me. It was at the train station. There were Jewish men and women milling about as if it was normal. They showed no signs of fear as the train was pulling in. These kids had talent, they had a future, and it was ripped away only because they were Jewish.

Kiefer says:
Today we were taught by Mr. Barmore the history of Jews in The Czech Republic. It started in the Middle Ages when the Jews were introduced as businessmen and bankers, and were later even knighted for bringing technology like the steam engine to Czechoslovakia. Before the beginning of World War I, the Jews saw German and Czech culture as their own. They assimilated and made up 25 percent of the richest  people of Germany, though as a whole only made up 1 percent of the population. What struck me the most was how the Czech Jews were so assimilated into the culture that some did not identify with their Jewish heritage when the Nazis came to take them to concentration and annihilation camps.

Day 7: Prague

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Our day began with an early morning visit from our friends Tony and Eva Vavreka, who spoke to us about their experiences growing up under communism in the former Czechoslovakia.  High school sweethearts, Tony and Eva immigrated to the United States in the late 1960's.  We are lucky to learn from them and to have them as part of our program.




Our good friend, Holocaust survivor Pavel Stransky, met us at our hotel and accompanied us by bus to the Terezin camp where accomplished, prestigious Jews from Prague, Berlin and elsewhere were sent. This former garrison town of Terezin, was renamed Theresienstadt by the Nazis. Despite the crowded conditions and lack of food, these Jews, who didn't know where they were going or how long they were going to have to "wait it out," composed operas like Brundibar, wrote literary journals like Vedem, and painted beautiful works of art.  Pavel worked as a teacher in Terezin, where he married his lovely bride, Vera, in order to go with her and her family to Auschwitz.  At that time, they had no idea what that meant.  Luckily, both Pavel and Vera survived and were reunited in Prague after the war. 








As we toured the museum at Terezin, Shalmi and Pavel shared information about what we were seeing, including the propaganda film made by the Nazis for the Red Cross visit. The Nazis forced the Jews in Theresienstadt to beautify the ghetto. 

The reason for the Red Cross visit? In what was known as "The Artists' Affair," five ghetto artists were able to smuggle drawings out of the ghetto which depicted the deplorable living conditions. A local art dealer was able to get them to Switzerland to the Red Cross. About the same time, when the Danish Jews were taken, their foreign minister demanded to know where they were going, and the Nazis told them they could visit them. The Red Cross came as a result of the concern of the Danish foreign minister and increasing international pressure to view conditions in the camps. Shalmi pointed out that the Nazis, again as the dictator, are very sensitive to criticism. Therefore, they clean up the ghetto and make a propaganda film, for a visit that lasted only two hours, and ended without the Red Cross going out of their way to find out what was really happening there.

 
We went to the hidden Danish synagogue that until ten years ago was used as a garage to store potatoes. Inside this synagogue, Shalmi read the Hebrew prayers still visible on the walls: "May it be your will, O God, that we return to Zion and see it once again." 
"Please God, abstain from your anger and take pity on the people you have chosen."
"Despite everything O God, we did not forget you. Don't forget us.”

After lunch we went to the small fortress, the concentration camp or prison, ¼ mile north of the ghetto. Shalmi explained that the concentration camp was intended for prisoners who could be rehabilitated to enter into society again, and weren't intended for Jews who were a destructive element in any society and could not be rehabilitated. However, because of the need for labor, many Jews were sent to concentration camps,with the intention that they would be worked to death and not survive. This military fortress, used for hundreds of years before World War II, housed many prisoners, including the Jews of the ghetto of Terezin, when they were being punished. The guards of this camp, as well as others, were not only SS, but also included prisoners, primarily criminals. Most were extremely cruel, showing that "brutality is made by human beings."


After a sunny bus ride looking out at yellow canola fields and pink blossoming apple orchards, we entered the parking lot of the Lidice Memorial site, where the Nazis razed the Czech village as a reprisal for the assassination of Reinhard Heydrich. Because of the mistaken Nazi belief that the villagers of Lidice harbored the Czech resistance fighters who threw a grenade into Heydrich's convertible when their machine gun malfunctioned, the Nazis made a lesson of Lidice. They shot all the men of the village, and sent the women to Ravensbruck in Germany, and most of the children were sent to Chelmno, where they were killed in the gas vans that had carbon monoxide channeled into the enclosed vans.




 

After our first attempt at a Google Hangout with New Milford High School and St. Thomas Aquinas High School, we went to dinner overlooking this beautiful city on our last night here.

Day 8: Lostice - Olomouc

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This morning we said goodbye to Prague and headed east to our next hotel stop, Olomouc. We had said goodbye to Kamila last night after our dinner at Nebozizek overlooking Prague, and this morning we said hello to our new guide, Ilona, who will be accompanying us from Prague to Olomouc and Trsice, and will be leaving us when we get to Poland. On the way we stopped in the town of Lostice, a town of about 3,000 people, where town historian and director of the Respect and Tolerance program in Lostice, Ludek Stipl, met us at the former Lostice synagogue. The mayor of Lostice gave us the history of the Jews in Lostice.We learned that the Jews of Lostice were very much assimilated into the community and that there had been an atmosphere of cooperation between the Jewish community and the Catholics.During World War II, 59 Jews from Lostice had been sent to concentration camps and after the war, only 3 returned. 










 



We were honored to listen to the story of Holocaust survivor Jiri Fiser, born in 1936 and deported to Terezin and later the Czech family camp in Auschwitz.  Because he was a twin, he was chosen by Dr. Mengele for medical experiments.  He and his brother survived and he was eight years old when he was liberated.  Today he is a member of the Olomouc Jewish Community and his story was filmed and is at Yad Vashem.

 


In 2006 the restoration of the synagogue by Mr. Stipl’s organization was begun and they completed it in 2011. No longer a functioning synagogue, it is now a center of learning for schools, teachers, and community members, all with the goal of preserving memory. The pews in the center are from the Olomouc synagogue, destroyed by the Nazis in 1939. Each of the 21 seats is dedicated to victims of the Holocaust from Lostice and surrounding towns. Each of the seats had a compartment dedicated to one of more families, and inside the compartment were everyday objects from the period and photos which were somehow linked to the people to whom that box was dedicated. 

 




 

 

 

 

 

In the box for Otto Wolf there were several items including pages from his diary, photos of his family and a spoon. We were all fascinated by these compartments and we spent some time looking through them. Mr. Stipl explained how these objects were used to teach both the history of the Jews in the area and the history of the Holocaust to children.

Upstairs we were shown the Otto Wolf library which had been established because of donations from Eva and Tony Vavrecka and is an integral part of the educational programs which the center sponsors for students and teachers. 

Next we were shown the documentary film which the Respect and Tolerance program produced with portions of Otto Wolf’s diary read by Czech students in English. We were all extremely impressed with what Mr. Stipl had been able to establish in such a short period of time, using the most current best practices in education. 
Leaving the synagogue we traveled to the Jewish cemetery which had been used since the 15thcentury until the last burial in May 1942, one month before the deportation transports left from this area. We noticed how many of the Jewish headstones in the 19thcentury were written in German, which we were able to connect to the point made many times earlier about how the Jews were trying to assimilate and absorb German language and culture.



 



 




We said goodbye to our new friend, Mr. Stipl and headed on to Olomouc. After checking into our hotel rooms, we went to the Jewish Community Center and were met by Petr Papousek, the head of the Jewish Federation of the Czech Republic and the leader of the Olomouc Jewish community. Grandson of our dear friend, Milos Dobry, of blessed memory, Petr showed our group the small synagogue in the Jewish center, the prayer blanket which was used for Torah readings which was donated after the war by Otto Wolf’s father in memory of his sons, Kurt and Otto, and spoke to us about the slow but steady growth of the Jewish community in the area. Petr answered questions from our students before walking with us to dinner at a lovely, local restaurant.


Student Reflections:

Sarah says:
Today while visiting Lostice and Olomouc I experienced the resilience of the Jewish community. In Lostice, a town where only 3 of the 57 Jewish residents survived the Holocaust, the synagogue has been transformed into an educational center where survivors such as Jiri Fisher come to share their stories in hopes of ensuring that nothing like the Holocaust ever happens again. In Olomouc the head of the Jewish community, Peter Papousek, talked about his experience rebuilding the Jewish community in Olomouc, which now has 150 members. I greatly admire the efforts of the Lostice and Olomouc communities to honor the lives of those lost in the Holocaust and to rebuild and rejuvenate Jewish life throughout Europe.


Dana says:
Jiri’s story of being sent to Theresienstadt camp when he was 4 years old and then sent to Auschwitz where he was liberated when he was 8 amazed me. What helped him survive was that he had a twin brother – they were too young to use for medical experiments but they were fed more and treated better to keep them alive. He started sharing his story in the 1970’s when he believed that he needed to share his story, and since his brother died two years ago, he has continued to educate people about the Holocaust.

Greg says:
Jiri Fiser represents one of the brave Jews who chose to return home after liberation. Peter Papousek’s small but strong community of Jews in Olomouc also demonstrates this desire to remain here. Instead of moving away as most survivors did, Jiri and the people of Peter’s Jewish community came back and continue to practice their religion, showing the resilience of the Jewish people.

 

Tara says:
Past experiences and shared knowledge allow people to connect with others at different levels, something I saw today when in the Lostice memorial looking at an old clarinet that a person just like me, a girl who plays the flute, could have owned. Even in a temple unlike any I had seen before, I still felt a connection, as I could read the Hebrew prayers and could relate to some of the temple's problems, such as a lack of incoming members,  that were similar to the ones at my temple. 



Nicole says:
Meeting Jiri Fiser today, an Auschwitz Holocaust survivor, really impacted me. Hearing him talk about being a survivor of twin experiments at Auschwitz really hit me hard. I had not understood the level of experimentation on children until I hear Mr. Fiser talk about his experience.

Gayle says:
In Lostice today we watched a new short documentary on the diary of Otto Wolf. I learned while in hiding during Yom Kippur the family went to look for food after fasting and they could not find food because they feared the Nazi activity in the area. I cannot imagine not eating after Yom Kippur and this made what happened to this family seem more real and relevant to my own life.

Shane says:
The survivor we met today Lostice today, Jiri Fiser, was used in horrible experiments by the Nazi doctor Mengele. His story of perseverance through something beyond our comprehension is one that is truly touching.

Trevor says:
Today´s experience with Jiri Fiser and Petr Papousek allowed me to make a connection between Jews of the wartime and the present. They both showed me the effect of the Holocaust on Jews in the past and on a small number of remaining Jews in present day Olomouc.

Raquel says:
The personal survival story of Jiri Fiser strongly impacted me today. Learning about the experiments that he had to endure as a child, seemed unreal to me. I cannot imagine how difficult this was for him and his twin brother.

Mackenzie says:
Today we watched a short film on Otto Wolf and his families experience during the Holocaust. The conditions were harsh and almost unbearable. The weather was below zero, the food was scarce and there were rats everywhere. It was tough to hear such an innocent family go through such a terrible experience.

Kyle says:
Today we met another survivor, Jiri Fiser, who only spoke Czech so Illona our guide translated his words into English. It really surprised me at his willingness to answer all of our questions considering they brought back such a tortuous past.

Kiefer says:
Today was powerful, getting the opportunity to meet another Holocaust survivor who lived  for the lone reason that he was used for scientific studies by Doctor Mengele. We were able to see a synagogue that went from a hall of prayer, to a storage hall, to a place of learning, and is now a museum showing the families lost from the town of Lostice.  

Jane says:
When meeting with Peter Papousek at the Jewish Center of Olomouc the discussion of what defines someone as a Jew intrigued me.  It did not make sense to me how one can be defined as Jewish if they had one JewIsh grandparent. Hearing this made me realize now meaningful being Jewish is to me for my heritage and to my family.

Matt says:
The synagogue in Lostice has been turned into a learning center to teach people about Czech Jews from Lostice whose lives had been taken away. With their synagogues, memorials, and welcoming Jewish communities, Czech cities are doing everything they can to keep their Jewish history alive.

Nick says:
What's amazing about Jiri is that he is one of the boys in an iconic image of liberated prisoners from the Auschwitz that many people recognize. He refused to talk about his experiences until the 1970s when he correctly concluded that the world needed his knowledge. 


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